Back to the Archives: Gucci, Van Cleef & Arpels and Pomellato Revisit Their Past This Autumn

The story of Gucci’s Horsebit began with a sketch in an artisan’s notebook at the end of the 1940s. By the following decade, the equestrian motif had found its way onto the House’s accessories and loafers, before appearing on bracelets and watches in the 1970s and, in 2004, inspiring a fine jewellery collection of its own.

Now, the Gucci Horsebit is back. New necklaces, pendants, rings and bracelets in yellow and white gold play with the familiar double-ring-and-bar motif, introducing diamonds and more sculptural proportions. There is also a new steel Horsebit watch, its chain bracelet turning the equestrian fastening into a graphic link.

Pomellato has made revisiting its archives an annual event. Since 2024, its Memorie d’Archivio series has brought back a different design from the past each year, beginning with Mora and Mosaico, followed by Bisanzio in 2025. For 2026, it is the turn of Moneta Orientale, a pendant first created in 1997.

The original was strikingly simple: a matte yellow gold disc with a square cut from its centre, suspended from a black cord. The new Moneta Orientale keeps that distinctive geometry but takes it in a much more colourful direction, with 33 stone and pavé combinations in two different sizes. Diamonds, sapphires and rubies meet richly veined malachite, deep blue lapis lazuli, rutilated quartz, red agate and a host of other hardstones, framed in polished rose gold or Pomellato’s signature irregular pavé.