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Know-How: Why do jewellers set gemstones upside down?
In every artistic discipline, there are traditionalist maestros with methodical practices and formal education, and there are rebellious types who think in their own revolutionary ways, who refuse to limit their potential by submitting to rules and regulations. And, of course, the latter exist in the world of jewellery art. Thanks to them, jewellery design is constantly developing, with the new techniques and forms regularly emerging. Recently, I was particularly intrigued by an alternative type of gem setting: the gemstone displayed with the culet facing outwards, creating the effect of a barbed surface.
One of the pioneers of this technique is the Hemmerle family, who are famed for their love of experimentation. First Stefan and Silveli, and then latterly their son Christian and his wife Yasmin all developed new methods for setting gemstones. Hemmerle is the first name which comes to mind for many jewellery lovers when discussing diamonds and gemstones set in reverse.
Hemmerle earrings with sapphires, spessatite garnets, copper and white gold, courtesy of Hemmerle
Hemmerle earrings with aluminium, white gold, aquamarines, courtesy of Hemmerle
Ara Vartanian double finger ring with 24ct fancy grey diamond, and grey, brown and colourless diamonds in white gold
Ara Vartanian double finger ring with 24ct fancy grey diamond, and grey, brown and colourless diamonds in white gold
Ara Vartanian ring with ruby, grey and colourless diamonds on white gold
Ara Vartanian 'Octopus' ring with 27.76ct Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds in white gold
Ara Vartanian 'Octopus' ring with rubellite, colourless and brown diamonds in white gold
Nam Cho ball earrings with diamonds, blue sapphires, and emeralds in white gold
Nam Cho ball earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds in white gold and black rhodium
Nam Cho oval spike drop baby hoop earrings with grey and white diamonds
D'joya 'Red Square' ring with rubies, tsavorites, natural saltwater pearls, sapphires and diamonds
D'joya 'Weaver's Nest' earrings with ruby beads, colourless and yellow diamonds and enamel
NUUN 'Tuwait' collection ring in howlite, diamonds and yellow gold
NUUN 'Tuwait' collection earrings in howlite, diamonds and yellow gold
NUUN 'Tuwait' collection bracelet in howlite, diamonds and yellow gold
NUUN 'Tuwait' collection bracelet in howlite, diamonds and yellow gold
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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