Jewellery Trends 2020: Complex Geometry and Architectural Designs

December 26, 2019

By Jodie Smith

5 min read

What are the biggest jewellery trends for 2020? One significant trend came to the fore through several fine jewellery collections released in 2019: designs featuring complex geometrics, and elaborate shapes and forms.

Fernando Jorge

Illustrating my prediction is Fernando Jorge’s new ‘Aerial’ collection, which includes some of the most intricate mechanics seen in fine jewellery: the ‘Contortionist’ earrings can be twisted, spun and worn in hundreds of different shapes, with each separate curve moving independently. Described by Jorge as “inspired by movements that take place in the air, drawing on everything from aerial acrobatics to astrology […] introducing randomness with asymmetrical placement of the diamonds.” The ‘Troupe’ earrings are comprised of concentric circles, and the ‘Aerial Loops’ necklace features graduating circles which surround the neck. The entire collection has been created in simple, slim yellow gold and is dappled – seemingly at random – with various sizes of brilliant cut diamonds.

Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Loops’ necklace with diamonds in yellow gold

Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Loops’ necklace with diamonds in yellow gold

 Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Contortionist’ earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Contortionist’ earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

 Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Troupe’ earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

Fernando Jorge 'Aerial' collection ‘Troupe’ earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

Nikos Koulis

Another achingly cool jeweller to know is Nikos Koulis, whose high jewellery ‘Feelings’ collection had jewellery editors across the world raving earlier in 2019. The designs are filled with contrasts: soft, articulated yellow gold, strong and bold black enamel and geometric, Art Deco shapes. The juxtaposed textures are accented with diamonds, and knotted twists of the precious metals allude to the maritime traditions of Greece, Koulis’ home. Each earring, necklace, ring and bracelet in the collection takes unexpected twists and turns at every possible juncture, with mixtures of channel set baguette and brilliant cut pavé diamonds interspersed with occasional larger pear cut stones.

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection necklace with diamonds and black enamel in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection necklace with diamonds and black enamel in yellow and white gold

 Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection ring with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Nikos Koulis ‘Feelings’ collection ring with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Fabio Salini

Fabio Salini debuted his new designs for 2019 at Masterpiece London, and the jewellery world immediately took notice. Exploring the mirrored surfaces that can be achieved with highly polished gold, the Italian designer offset these with large slices of rubellite, Paraiba, rhodolite, kunzite, sapphires, accented by diamonds set in titanium and white gold. The vivid pink, blue and green gemstones are reflected, and appear to multiply in number or volume, and – even more intriguing – hidden details are revealed through changing the viewer’s perspective with the mirrored gold. The unusual effects of these optical illusions are best represented in Salini’s selection of large volume pieces: long drop earrings in rounded shapes and bombastic cocktail rings.

Fabio Salini earrings with rubellite, rhodolite, kunzite, sapphires and diamonds in titanium and white gold

Fabio Salini earrings with rubellite, rhodolite, kunzite, sapphires and diamonds in titanium and white gold

 Fabio Salini ring with 15.74ct rubellite, diamonds and sapphires in titanium and white gold

Fabio Salini ring with 15.74ct rubellite, diamonds and sapphires in titanium and white gold

 Fabio Salini drop earrings with 72.35ct rubellite, diamonds and sapphires in titanium and white gold

Fabio Salini drop earrings with 72.35ct rubellite, diamonds and sapphires in titanium and white gold

 Fabio Salini earrings with diamonds and tsavorites in titanium, carbon fibre and white gold

Fabio Salini earrings with diamonds and tsavorites in titanium, carbon fibre and white gold

 Fabio Salini earrings with 18.68ct rubellite, 16.02ct rhodolite and diamonds in titanium and white gold

Fabio Salini earrings with 18.68ct rubellite, 16.02ct rhodolite and diamonds in titanium and white gold

NUUN

Finally, NUUN’s new ‘Manifesto’ collection includes the ‘Thahab’ and ‘Origami’ rings – both of which are based on surprising asymmetrical shapes, as well as custom-cut stones, and offset diamonds upon angular precious metals. The simple geometry of the ‘Thahab’ ring, with a broad, flat yellow gold shank, is contrasted with the rose cut facets of the round 1.47 carat diamond’s crown – whereas the ‘Origami’ ring is much more complex; with faceted rose and white gold melded together and sanded to create an unconventional texture effect and mixture of metals. The featured gemstone is an irregular pentagonal 3.34 carat morganite, which sits adjacent to a kite-shaped diamond, creating a design reminiscent of the works of world-famous modern architects such as Daniel Libeskind. 

NUUN ‘Manifesto’ collection ‘Thahab’ ring with rose cut 1.47ct diamond in yellow gold

NUUN ‘Manifesto’ collection ‘Thahab’ ring with rose cut 1.47ct diamond in yellow gold

 NUUN ‘Manifesto’ collection ‘Origami’ ring with fancy cut 3.34ct morganite and kite cut diamond in rose and white gold

NUUN ‘Manifesto’ collection ‘Origami’ ring with fancy cut 3.34ct morganite and kite cut diamond in rose and white gold

This move into less conventional forms in fine jewellery is led by daring designers and driven by demand from their fans alike, sharing a common desire to be different, and to reject the conventions of the industry. All the while, these artists uphold the principles of high jewellery: beauty and flawless execution – alongside their modern, original concepts.

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