Once upon a time in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, pearls were highly prized as status symbols because they were reserved exclusively for royalty or members of the aristocracy. Julius Caesar decreed that only the ruling classes were permitted to wear them. They were identified with Aphrodite, the goddess of love, and it was even imagined that pearls were formed from her tears of joy, symbolising purity and divine beauty. Pearls are not just rare but also mysterious, because their origin story is a powerful reminder of the old adage not to judge a book by its cover. The unassuming exterior of an oyster shell conceals the treasure within. Shopping for pearls can be a bit of a minefield but don’t worry, we have dived deep into the oyster beds of the industry leaders, so you don’t have to!
1. Tasaki: Pearls for Every Generation
Tasaki is one of the largest producers of Akoya pearls. The brand operates pearl farms at Nagasaki in the sea of Kujukushima (a word meaning ‘99 islands’) and at Mie near Ise-Shima, as well as in the Andaman Sea, off the Myanmar coast. Tasaki is all about giving pearls a modern makeover. It’s big on sustainability, with eco-friendly practices that keep the oceans happy. But what really sets them apart? Its fresh take on pearl designs that appeal to everyone, not just your grandma. Tasaki designer Thakoon Panichgul says: “A pearl's natural beauty by highlighting its unique lustre and timeless elegance. We reimagine pearls in modern, playful ways, using versatile Akoya pearls to create designs that elevate any style. This approach makes TASAKI Collection Line's signature designs, like 'balance' and 'danger,' perfect for everyday wear.”
Tasaki’s recent expansion into collaborations beyond traditional jewellery signifies an effort to tap into the younger generation, in particular, Gen Z. Through partnerships with brands like Asics for pearl-coated trainers, Eyevan for pearl eyewear, and the introduction of a jewellery-tech hybrid earphone line, Tasaki is not only expanding its product range but also challenging the traditional perception of pearls in fashion. “Their appeal has grown as we've pushed the boundaries of design, making them exciting and relevant for all ages.” Says Panichgul. Whether it's pearl-coated sneakers or sleek jewellery, Tasaki is shaking up the pearl game, making it cooler than ever before.
2. Mikimoto: The Pioneer of Pearls
In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto, often dubbed the “King of Pearls” – and the founder of the Japanese jewellery house Mikimoto – was the first person to produce a cultured pearl through artificial means. The process he invented is akin to farming livestock: molluscs are born, bred, nurtured, and eventually harvested for their pearls. A Mikimoto spokesperson told us: “One of the things that we take pride in is the fact that we have an unparalleled level of understanding and respect for materials such as pearls, based on our history and legacy for having pursued the beauty and potential of pearls and channelling them into exquisite pieces for over a century.”
Mikimoto’s “Kai-lingual” system is a testament to its commitment to protecting marine ecosystems. This technology monitors water quality in real-time, ensuring the sustainability of its pearl farms. If you are looking to invest in the first player in pearls, look no further.
3. Yoko London: A Fresh Perspective
When it comes to luxurious, innovative, and one-of-a-kind pearl jewellery, Yoko London stands out as a leader in the industry. Established in 1973, Yoko London has built a reputation for creating some of the world’s most distinctive pearl jewellery. Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London believes that pearls are like his children: “Each has their own beauty, their own intellect, their own personality, their own characteristics that are unique to that pearl and that pearl only. This is why after 46 years in the pearl business, I still find every day exciting, every day different and every day I get a big surprise.” highlighting the deep connection and careful consideration that goes into selecting and crafting each piece of Yoko London jewellery.
Whether you are looking for a statement piece or a timeless classic, Yoko London offers a wide range of designs that cater to various tastes and styles making it a go-to choice for those who want something truly special.
4. Assael: Honouring Pearls in Their Purest Form
Assael’s approach is like a breath of fresh sea air in the jewellery world. Unlike other jewellers who may alter pearls to fit certain trends, Assael is committed to showcasing pearls exactly as they are found in nature, without the need for any extra polishing or reshaping. As Peggy Grosz, Assael’s Senior Vice President and Creative Director, puts it: “There is no other gem like the pearl. They are terribly elegant... They are biogenic gems, meaning that they come from a living organism. This has a tremendous amount of meaning to me!”
Assael’s use of deep, captivating gemstones like ocean-blue sapphires or rich emeralds enhances the design, creating a breath-taking contrast that draws the eye. The gemstones' intense hues are beautifully set against the softer, lustrous tones of the pearls.
5. Melanie Georgacopoulos: Redefining the Pearls
Melanie Georgacopoulos is a trailblazer in the world of contemporary jewellery, known for her boundary-pushing designs that challenge traditional perceptions of pearls. With a background in sculpture, Georgacopoulos approaches pearls with an artistic eye, transforming them from classic gemstones into modern, avant-garde pieces that captivate and surprise.
Her collaboration with the Japanese jewellery house Tasaki in 2012 led to the creation of the M/G Tasaki line, where her unique vision and Tasaki’s renowned craftsmanship merged to produce collections that are both cutting-edge and deeply respectful of the pearl’s natural beauty. "For over 10 years now, pearls have been the connecting thread between all of my designs, both for my brand and for M/G Tasaki," she tells us. "For me, pearls are the starting point for every collection and the inspiration behind every one of my designs." Her work is a testament to this philosophy, consistently showcasing the unique beauty of pearls through ground-breaking techniques. If you love pearls with a contemporary twist, Melanie Georgacopoulos has got you covered.
6. Autore: A Celebration of South Sea Pearls
Autore is synonymous with South Sea pearls, celebrated for their exceptional size, lustre, and unique hues. Based in Australia, Autore is a leading authority in the cultivation of these rare pearls, ensuring that each piece it creates is a true work of art. Autore’s collections are known for their luxurious and contemporary designs, blending the natural beauty of South Sea pearls with modern craftsmanship. Their pieces often feature pearls in their most natural state, emphasizing their organic beauty.
As the brand’s founder, Rosario Autore, often says: “Each pearl is a masterpiece of nature, and our role is to present it in a way that allows its natural beauty to shine through.” Investing in an Autore piece means owning a unique creation that showcases the unparalleled beauty of South Sea pearls, making it a treasured addition to any jewellery collection.
7. Mizuki: Minimalist Design, Maximal Impact
Mizuki is a brand founded by designer Mizuki Goltz that offers a fresh and modern take on pearls, with designs that are both understated yet striking. Mizuki’s jewellery often features a delicate balance between simplicity and luxury, making her pieces versatile enough to be worn every day or for special occasions.
Mizuki's philosophy is rooted in the belief that jewellery should be a personal expression of style: "I want my designs to inspire women to express their individuality and confidence," says Mizuki. Her collections reflect this ethos, with pearls often paired with diamonds, gold, and other precious materials to create pieces that are effortlessly chic.
8. Jewelmer: Masters of the Golden Pearl
Jewelmer is particularly known for their exquisite golden pearls, often described as the "golden sun" of the ocean, they are so striking that they appear as if they are crafted from real gold. Based in the Philippines, Jewelmer has set the standard for ethical pearl farming, with a strong emphasis on environmental stewardship and community development. The brand’s pearls are harvested from the pristine waters of Palawan, where they are carefully cultivated to produce pearls of unmatched quality and beauty.
The brand’s designs range from classic to bold, statement-making pieces, each showcasing the rich, natural hues of their pearls. “Our pearls are not just jewels; they are symbols of harmony and balance with nature,” says Jacques Branellec, Jewelmer’s co-founder.
9. Utopia: The Italian Touch
Next up, let’s explore Utopia, an Italian brand that brings a touch of Mediterranean charm to the world of pearl jewellery. Utopia offers a range of pearl jewellery that combines traditional Italian artistry with contemporary style. The brand is particularly renowned for its use of South Sea and Tahitian pearls, which are expertly paired with diamonds and other gemstones to create pieces that are both luxurious and unique.
Utopia’s collections are inspired by the natural beauty of the sea and the vibrant La Dolce Vita culture of Italy. As Utopia’s Creative Director, Anna Gaia, explains: “Our jewellery reflects our heritage and passion for beauty. Each piece is crafted with the utmost attention to detail, ensuring that our pearls are showcased in the most beautiful way possible.” For those who appreciate the artistry and heritage of classic Italian jewellery, Utopia offers pieces that are both tasteful, traditional and distinctive, making them a perfect choice.
10. Coscia: Tradition Meets Innovation
Founded in 1919, Coscia has been making waves in the world of pearl jewellery for over a century. With a rich heritage, the brand has perfected the art of crafting exquisite pieces using only the finest pearls, whether Akoya, South Sea, or Tahitian. Their designs are a wonderful mix of classic and contemporary, offering something for every style.
Coscia’s signature style often features pearls framed in gold and diamonds, adding a touch of sparkle to their natural shimmer. You’ll see this in many of their collections, especially in their dreamy rose gold pearl flower petal pieces, pictured here. Coscia is all about quality and each pearl is handpicked to meet the brand’s sky-high standards. As CEO Giancarlo Coscia puts it: “Our mission is to create jewellery that’s not just beautiful, but also a reflection of our family’s values and the traditions we hold dear.”
So, whether you’re eyeing Tasaki’s modern masterpieces, Mikimoto’s cultured wonders, or Yoko London’s show-stopping designs, pearls have come a long way from their royal roots. With brands on the market like Assael, Melanie Georgacopoulos, and Mizuki and Jewelmer, there's a pearl for every occasion.
