Next Level: Jewelled Watches for Men Who Have it All

December 21, 2020

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

Across the world there is a contingent of stylish gentlemen who collect showstopping diamond-set timepieces to help them stand out among a well-accessorised crowd. When it comes to party dressing for the festive season, a high jewellery watch on a man is the ultimate luxury where haute horlogerie meets lashings of diamonds, often taking hours of painstaking craftsmanship. Here, I’ve selected some of my favourite jewelled timepieces for men that will elevate even the most distinguished private collection.

Creating a high jewellery timepiece for men isn’t just about how many diamonds can be packed onto a dial (although the fantastic sparkle certainly helps). Rather, it’s about setting stones with purpose, telling a story and enhancing a watch’s unique horological features with light. When searching for perfect men’s timepieces for the winter season, I focus on creations that demand a second look and challenge the diamond-set bezel status quo.

Ulysse Nardin 

The “Sparkling Blast” high jewellery timepiece by Ulysse Nardin is an open-work mini-masterpiece featuring an automatic tourbillon movement embellished with a mosaic of diamonds. The placement of each stone is designed to mimic the randomness of shards of broken glass, but this non-uniformity is cleverly contrasted with the sharp geometry of the dial. A rectangle of baguette-cut diamonds, baguette-cut diamond hour markers and the brand’s recognisable “X” shape add depth to the dial design without overpowering the intricate details of the skeletonised tourbillon movement. To put the handiwork of Ulysse Nardin in perspective, this watch contains 211 diamonds with 85 distinct cuts, totalling 13 carats. They’ve even thought about festive party dressing too, with white rubber and blue and white alligator leather straps available to suit his personal style.

Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery timepiece with the brand's 'X' shape on the dial

Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery timepiece with the brand's 'X' shape on the dial

 The Sparkling Blast timepiece by Ulysse Nardin features a mosaic of diamonds designed to look like shards of broken glass

The Sparkling Blast timepiece by Ulysse Nardin features a mosaic of diamonds designed to look like shards of broken glass

 The Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery timepiece contains 13 carats of diamonds

The Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery timepiece contains 13 carats of diamonds

 Diamond details on the buckle of the Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery watch

Diamond details on the buckle of the Ulysse Nardin Sparkling Blast High Jewellery watch

Piaget 

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue Collection feels like it pushes the boundaries of design for men and yet its roots can be traced back to 1874 and Piaget’s founder, Georges Edouard Piaget. The ultra-thin movement housed in this small series of jewelled watches was Georges’ speciality and it formed the technical foundations of his eponymous brand when it launched in 1943. With modern advances, some elements of the Altiplano 670P flying tourbillon movement measure no more than the thickness of a human hair! In this context, it is remarkable that such a mechanism can be enhanced with so many diamonds in such intricate designs. For example, the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue Limited Edition 18 has 276 baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds set in swirls across its dial, bezel, lugs and buckle with a total weight of 3.41 carats.

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue timepiece collection

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue timepiece collection

 The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, limited to 18 pieces, set with 276 diamonds totalling 3.41 carats

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, limited to 18 pieces, set with 276 diamonds totalling 3.41 carats

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, limited to 38 pieces, with 135 diamonds totalling 2.29 carats

The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, limited to 38 pieces, with 135 diamonds totalling 2.29 carats

Jacob & Co.

The Mystery Tourbillion is, first and foremost, a feat of horological engineering that moves the wearer to tell time in a whole new way. Two back-to-back triple-axis tourbillons provide the core movement, with the first completing a full revolution in 60 seconds and the second and third axes making a full revolution in two minutes. Layered ‘mystery discs’ rotate around the twin triple-axis to tell the time, with ruby gemstone indicators and sapphire indices highlighting the hour and minutes. The case of the timepiece is invisibly set with baguette-cut hexagonal diamonds and the dial is ‘layered’ with diamonds to create a three-dimensional effect. This incredible piece of artistry, which spent more than a year in development, has a total diamond weight of 33.65 carats, in addition to rubies, sapphires and 18k white gold. Further editions of this unique creation are set with ruby and tsavorite garnet hour markers, and, in the case of The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby, more than 40 carats of hexagonal-cut rubies.

 A closer view of the movement within the Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby high jewellery timepiece

A closer view of the movement within the Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby high jewellery timepiece

 Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby with 41.51 carats of baguette-cut hexagonal diamonds

Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby with 41.51 carats of baguette-cut hexagonal diamonds

 Hexagonal-shaped rubies are set on rotating discs to tell the time in The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby by Jacob & Co

Hexagonal-shaped rubies are set on rotating discs to tell the time in The Mystery Tourbillon Ruby by Jacob & Co

 Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon with two discs that rotate to tell the time, set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies

Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon with two discs that rotate to tell the time, set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies

 The Mystery Tourbillon by Jacob & Co is set with 33.65 carats of diamonds

The Mystery Tourbillon by Jacob & Co is set with 33.65 carats of diamonds

 Beneath the domed glass of The Mystery Tourbillon by Jacob & Co are two triple-axis tourbillons, placed back-to-back

Beneath the domed glass of The Mystery Tourbillon by Jacob & Co are two triple-axis tourbillons, placed back-to-back

Hublot

The Hublot Stunning Depth Haute Joaillerie Collection includes a triple bill of diamond-set timepieces, each with its own manufacture movement and stylish exterior. The first, the Big Bang Unico High Jewellery watch with a flyback chronograph movement, shines with 334 invisible-set baguette-cut diamonds totalling 12.5 carats. Next there’s the Sprit of Big Bang High Jewellery timepiece, with 346 baguette-cut diamonds surrounding the HUB4700 Swiss Chronograph movement and, finally, the Classic Fusion High Jewellery watch is set with 427 baguette-, rectangular- and trapeze-cut diamonds and contains a self-winding manufacture movement. An interesting feature of all three watches is the strap, which uses alligator leather sewn onto natural rubber for comfort and traditional elegance. All are crafted in 18ct white gold for a lovely luminous finishing touch.

Hublot Big Bang Unico High Jewellery watch with 334 invisible-set baguette-cut diamonds

Hublot Big Bang Unico High Jewellery watch with 334 invisible-set baguette-cut diamonds

 Hublot Classic Fusion High Jewellery watch with 427 baguette-, rectangular- and trapeze-cut diamonds

Hublot Classic Fusion High Jewellery watch with 427 baguette-, rectangular- and trapeze-cut diamonds

 Hublot Spirit of Big Bang High Jewellery watch with 346 baguette-cut diamonds

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang High Jewellery watch with 346 baguette-cut diamonds

Roger Dubuis

Launched earlier this year, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia is as much about the finesse of its mechanical interior as the gemstones set on its exterior. Imagine for a second receiving instructions to cut around 600 diamonds and sapphires into triangle and tetrahedron shapes, followed by guidance to individually hand-set each of these stones into a palladium and white gold watch case, ensuring the setting is almost entirely invisible. This process took around 900 hours for the Excalibur Superbia, which highlights just how patient master craftspeople must be! The watch itself contains two flying tourbillons in a manufacture skeleton calibre, crafted entirely in titanium. The brand refers to this piece as a “hyperwatch” meaning it goes beyond the description of luxury into a whole new category of design, creativity and expense.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia "hyperwatch" with 600 diamonds and sapphires

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia "hyperwatch" with 600 diamonds and sapphires

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia required around 900 hours of workmanship to complete

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia required around 900 hours of workmanship to complete

Triangular and tetrahedron-shaped diamonds and sapphires decorate the case, bezel and lugs of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia

Triangular and tetrahedron-shaped diamonds and sapphires decorate the case, bezel and lugs of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia

High jewellery watches for men are a status symbol like no other. By pushing mechanical expertise, gem-setting and innovation to ultimate heights, brands like the ones shown here attract the one percent of the one percent, who have a collection of unique timepieces that can’t be outdone.

Gift Guide: The Most Coveted New Year Jewels in Russia

continue reading

Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry 

Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.

by Katerina Perez

Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection

Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.

by Sarah Jordan

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.