Jewel of the Month: Diorama Foret Enchantée Necklace by Dior Joaillerie

September 10, 2024

By Hirshi Sujanti

5 min read

Imagine stepping into a fairy tale where every detail, from rustling leaves to delicate woodland creatures, is captured in exquisite jewellery. The Dior Joaillerie Diorama Forêt Enchantée High Jewellery set is my own mystical forest—a miniature world crafted with such precision and care that it feels as though I’ve stumbled upon a hidden wonderland. As the hero piece of the new Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery collection, it perfectly deserves the ‘jewel of the month’ title this September.

What drew me to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée parure during Haute Couture Week in Paris wasn’t simply its exceptional craftsmanship and creativity but also the emotions it conjured within me upon first glance. The necklace evokes a sense of timeless magic, depicting a tableau of nature’s finest, including charming rabbits, graceful deer, elegant swans and playful squirrels, all rendered in a way that makes each creature come alive. It’s reminiscent of childhood stories where animals speak and trees whisper secrets on the wind. Each element is meticulously detailed to transport the viewer back to these more whimsical and innocent days.

Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection, set with a 16.16 carat Colombian emerald, smaller emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pearls, and brilliant-cut diamonds, featuring sculpted chrysoprase animals crafted using the technique of glyptic arts, set in 18k yellow gold

Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection, set with a 16.16 carat Colombian emerald, smaller emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pearls, and brilliant-cut diamonds, featuring sculpted chrysoprase animals crafted using the technique of glyptic arts, set in 18k yellow gold

  A closer look at the three-dimensional chrysoprase deer and squirrel in the Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery collection, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

A closer look at the three-dimensional chrysoprase deer and squirrel in the Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery collection, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

 A carved three-dimensional chrysoprase ‘resting deer’, crafted using the technique of glyptic arts, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, all set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

A carved three-dimensional chrysoprase ‘resting deer’, crafted using the technique of glyptic arts, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, all set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

 Diorama Forêt Enchantée asymmetric earrings featuring glyptic chrysoprase squirrels and rabbits, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Diorama Forêt Enchantée asymmetric earrings featuring glyptic chrysoprase squirrels and rabbits, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

 Diorama Forêt Enchantée ring featuring a ‘sleeping’ glyptic chrysoprase fawn, a large Colombian emerald, smaller emeralds, diamonds, and tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

Diorama Forêt Enchantée ring featuring a ‘sleeping’ glyptic chrysoprase fawn, a large Colombian emerald, smaller emeralds, diamonds, and tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

Diorama Foret Enchantée Inspiration

Why did Dior’s Creative Director Victoire de Castellane choose this theme, you might ask? She drew inspiration from Toile de Jouy—a traditional decorative pattern featuring repeating pastoral motifs in a single colour. It holds a special place in Dior’s history, having adorned the walls, counters, and canopy of Christian Dior’s original boutique on 30 Avenue de Montaigne in 1947. The new collection channels this nostalgic essence, offering miniature jewelled ‘frescoes’ that also celebrate the favoured blooms of Monsieur Dior and his garden in Milly-la-Forêt, northern France.

Adding a large Colombian emerald to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée ring featuring a ‘sleeping’ glyptic chrysoprase fawn along with diamonds, emeralds and tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Adding a large Colombian emerald to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée ring featuring a ‘sleeping’ glyptic chrysoprase fawn along with diamonds, emeralds and tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Nature-Inspired Textured Gold

Now, let’s explore the intricacies of this necklace and its construction. The branches and leaves were sculpted in yellow gold, then hammered and pricked to achieve the resemblance to the patterns we see on tree trunks and foliage. This technique, originally developed for the Rose Dior collection, is used to great effect here, both to enhance the storytelling but also to add texture and dimension. The golden surface also contrasts beautifully with the faceted gemstones, including tsavorite garnets, emeralds, tiny pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds shaped as marquises, ovals and rounds. All of them meet at the focal point of the design – a gorgeous Colombian emerald weighing over 16 carats.

A model wears the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection. Image Credit: Pierre Mouton

A model wears the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection. Image Credit: Pierre Mouton

Chrysoprase and the Glyptic Arts

This important emerald certainly adds to the uniqueness of the design; however, what I find truly remarkable is the use of chrysoprase, with its milky-green hue adding a wonderfully unexpected twist. It’s unusual to see this glyptic element featured in Dior Joaillerie High Jewellery, and the presence of sculpted material here strikes a nostalgic chord while also celebrating the thrill of experimentation in jewellery design. Carvings are also presented in a matching ring featuring a serene, sleeping fawn and a pair of earrings adorned with an animated squirrel and a rabbit; each placed next to a vibrant emerald as if to highlight the contrast between a transparent and an opaque gem. All elements of the set, including the carvings, were crafted in-house at the Maison’s own jewellery atelier located one floor above the Avenue Montaigne boutique. 

A carved three-dimensional chrysoprase rabbit, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

A carved three-dimensional chrysoprase rabbit, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée set from the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Considered Craftsmanship

Although I saw many outstanding creations during Paris Haute Couture Week, I have to say that this piece impressed me with its level of craftsmanship, detail and the myriad techniques it represents, from the glyptic arts to goldsmithing, bas-relief, and micro stone setting. Then there’s the perfectly complementary hues of the minerals used throughout, including three shades of green that add depth and dimension. No wonder this suite took over 4,700 hours to create!

Adding a 16.16-carat Colombian emerald to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace, surrounded by diamonds, smaller emeralds, and pearls, set in 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Adding a 16.16-carat Colombian emerald to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace, surrounded by diamonds, smaller emeralds, and pearls, set in 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

 Adding a pearl to the to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace, surrounded by a large emerald, diamonds, smaller emeralds, and pearls, set in 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Adding a pearl to the to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace, surrounded by a large emerald, diamonds, smaller emeralds, and pearls, set in 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

 Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace in the making, featuring a glyptic chrysoprase swan and deer, and incorporating a 16.16-carat Colombian emerald, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace in the making, featuring a glyptic chrysoprase swan and deer, and incorporating a 16.16-carat Colombian emerald, set in engraved 18k yellow gold, part of the Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery Collection

 Emerald and tsavorite garnet flowers, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

Emerald and tsavorite garnet flowers, part of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée Necklace, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

 The making of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée asymmetric earrings, including emerald and diamond flowers and a glyptic chrysoprase squirrel and rabbit, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

The making of the Diorama Forêt Enchantée asymmetric earrings, including emerald and diamond flowers and a glyptic chrysoprase squirrel and rabbit, surrounded by diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and pearls, set in engraved 18k yellow gold

A special event took place in Florence earlier this year to present 172 pieces from the Diorama & Diorigaimi High Jewellery collection and we are told more jewels are currently in production. This makes me wonder if it is possible at all that there will be another set, even more beautiful than this one, in this collection. Let’s wait and see.

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