Year of the Ox: Watches to count down to Chinese New Year

February 8, 2021

By Sarah Jordan

6 min read

The humble ox is the second animal of the Zodiac and is said to embody the qualities of hard work, positivity, and honesty. Its reliability and demure persona, never demanding the attention of the Tiger or the Dragon, for example, has encouraged brands to take their Chinese New Year timepieces in a new direction this year. If the oxen denotes a calm, steady and robust personality, perhaps these watches are destined for the wrists of equally inspiring individuals, each with their own quiet determination.

The Chinese New Year brings with it a new phase in the lunar calendar and, as tradition ensures, one of 12 Zodiac animals to represent the year ahead. 2021 heralds the ‘Year of the Ox’, which has in-turn inspired a plethora of watch brands to reimagine the beast in the form of enamel, diamonds, miniature paintings, and engraved metals. Here, I’ve chosen some creative interpretations of the oxen, captured on watch dials in exceptional detail, that can add a touch of luxury to the Chinese New Year, starting on Friday, February 12th.

The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox timepiece features a hand-painted scene in urushi lacquer – a combination of lacquer and gold powder

The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox timepiece features a hand-painted scene in urushi lacquer – a combination of lacquer and gold powder

Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Year of the Ox

The image of a mighty oxen beneath a moonlit sky was the inspiration behind Arnold & Son’s impeccable timepiece, which has been created in an eight-piece limited series. The watch features a luminous moon phase, crafted in mother of pearl and coated with Super-LumiNova, atop a silver-speckled hematite gemstone dial for strong contrast. Of course, the star of the show is the oxen, shining in yellow gold at the 6 o’clock position, which is actually a miniature sculpture as opposed to a two-dimensional form. The timepiece is completed with an alligator-leather strap, a rose gold case and hand-painted pagodas as a further nod to its Chinese New Year inspirations.

Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Year of the Ox watch with a miniature yellow gold oxen sculpture

Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Year of the Ox watch with a miniature yellow gold oxen sculpture

HW Harry Winston Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic

Determined to shine a spotlight on the majesty of the oxen, Harry Winston has interpreted the beast in its own glamorous style with a red mother of pearl dial and two different finishes – a naturally iridescent top half and an etched landscape of rolling hills at the bottom. Standing proudly at the centre of the piece is a horned ox, brought to life in rose gold and 103 brilliant-cut diamonds, haloed by a crescent of diamonds. As a final flourish, the piece is set with a single large emerald-cut diamond at the 12 o’clock position, which rockets the total weight to 2.80 carats. Only eight pieces have been made and each one is engraved with its number on a transparent sapphire case back.

HW Harry Winston Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic timepiece with a red mother of pearl diamond and diamonds

HW Harry Winston Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic timepiece with a red mother of pearl diamond and diamonds

 The HW Harry Winston Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic watch is set with 103 brilliant-cut diamonds

The HW Harry Winston Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic watch is set with 103 brilliant-cut diamonds

Piaget Altiplano Year of the Ox

Piaget has immortalised the ox on the dial of one of its most iconic timepieces – the ultra-thin Altiplano – using grand feu cloisonné enamel applied by the skilled hand of master-enameller, Anita Porchet. The watch is deceptively simple, with a white gold case and a shining ring of 78 brilliant-cut diamonds set in the bezel. Within is the brand’s 430P hand-wound movement that is remarkably just 2.1mm thick. Elsewhere, Piaget has continued its Chinese New Year celebrations with a new Limelight Stella Moonphase watch in shades of rose gold and coral red with diamond-set constellation details.

Piaget Altiplano Year of the Ox watch with grand feu cloisonné enamel applied by master enameller, Anita Porchet

Piaget Altiplano Year of the Ox watch with grand feu cloisonné enamel applied by master enameller, Anita Porchet

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox

With two colourways to choose from, Vacheron Constantin has created a beautifully detailed homage to the oxen while continuing the traditions laid out in its ‘Legend of the Chinese Zodiac’ series. A quartet of apertures, calendar, day of the week, hours and minutes, create a frame around the three-dimensional animal at the heart of the watch, which is minutely engraved to create the impression of fur, movement and power all at once. The ox is surrounded by grand feu enamelled flowers, leaves and vines, which are delicate in contrast to the animal itself. The only decision one has to make is between the two colour palettes of platinum and deep blue or rose gold and burnt orange.

The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox timepiece is offered in two distinctive colour palettes

The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox timepiece is offered in two distinctive colour palettes

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox

The past and the present combine in this Chines New Year timepiece by Chopard, which looks as if an ancient drawing has been unearthed and carefully captured on a watch dial for a new generation. The scene is painted in urushi lacquer – a combination of lacquer and gold powder – by master artisan Minori Koizumi in the century-old workshops of Japan’s Yamada Heiando company. The ox is pulling a decorative cart across stony ground under a night sky, which has a certain romance all in itself. Where is it going? Who is it transporting? In this way, Chopard has managed to tell a tantalising story without the fanfare of diamonds captured for generations to come in a frame of rose gold.

The urushi enamel painting on this Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox watch was created by master artisan Minori Koizumi

The urushi enamel painting on this Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox watch was created by master artisan Minori Koizumi

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo

Not one to be outdone, Jaquet Droz has created four ox themed Petite Heure Minute timepieces this year: two crafted in red gold with or without diamonds, and a further design in either white or red gold. The former focuses on an ox grazing against a backdrop of mist-covered mountains, hand-painted in miniature on a white grand feu enamel dial to capture the animals calm, reliable and humble nature. The latter style is a little more ostentatious, with an ox engraved in gold relief against a black onyx dial. Behind the animal is a golden plum tree, dotted with ruby gemstone fruits. Interestingly, the Jaquet-Droz family can trace its history with the Chinese Imperial Court back to the 18th century when it exported hundreds of pieces and automaton watches to China and its leaders. This year’s Zodiac inspired pieces highlight many skills the house is known for, including miniature painting, gem-setting, gold appliqué, hand-engraving and relief engraving.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch with a hand-painted scene on a white grand feu enamel dial

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch with a hand-painted scene on a white grand feu enamel dial

 The second of four Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watches created to celebrate Chinese New Year

The second of four Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watches created to celebrate Chinese New Year

 Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch with an ox engraved in gold relief against a black onyx dial

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch with an ox engraved in gold relief against a black onyx dial

 Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch is set with small rubies to add colour to an engraved plum tree

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Buffalo watch is set with small rubies to add colour to an engraved plum tree

If you are fortunate enough to enhance your watch collection with an ox-inspired timepiece in 2021, you may also look ahead to next year, when the ‘Year of the Tiger’ will no doubt result in a flourish of daring designs with the extravagance and fiery hues this big cat demands.

Next Generation: How ORLOV is Reinventing High Jewellery for a New Age

continue reading

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Celebrating Colour: 20 Uplifting Jewellery Creations by Lisa Nik

Whether you're craving a juicy mandarin garnet or an eye-catching bi-colour tourmaline, here are 20 joyful pieces that exemplify the Lisa Nik approach, as well as the inspiration behind them…

by Sarah Jordan

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Coolest Watch Novelties

With pastel pops, Pop Art influences, and playful twists on time itself, Watches and Wonders 2025 delivered a vibrant feast of creativity. Discover the fun new watches setting trends in Geneva this spring

by Rachael Taylor

White Hot: Achromatic Jewellery is Having a Moment

Let’s explore the revival of all white jewellery and discover why this look is universally complementary – and a great investment.  

by Rachael Taylor

Reinventing Royalty: The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology 

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Watches and Wonders 2025: Eight of the Most Artful Dials 

From lovers kissing on a bridge to precious animals painted in enamel or gems, this year’s watch launches included timepieces with extraordinary dials that blur the line between watchmaking and wearable art.

by Rachael Taylor

Birthday Wishes: Embracing the Power of Being Different 

Today, I want to share my thoughts on embracing your inner self and channelling all that power into your biggest passions…

by Katerina Perez

Flip the Script: Meet the Jewellers Creating Luxury Customised Watches

Jewellery designers are increasingly turning their artistic talents to the world of horology, customising luxury watches with unique embellishments that carry their personal style signatures. From reimagined Rolexes to gemstone-studded bezels, discover how jewellers are making their mark on the world of timepieces

by Rachael Taylor

Iconic Revival: Boucheron Reinvents the Serpent Bohème Jewellery

That nostalgic feeling of seeing past creations—sometimes forgotten, sometimes iconic—sparking a rush of inspiration to reimagine and breathe new life into what once was. That's exactly what Boucheron has achieved with its latest revival: the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection

by Hirshi Sujanti

Art Deco Innovation: Exploring the Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting

The Mystery Setting by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out as a masterpiece of Art Deco ingenuity. As the world celebrates the centenary of Art Deco in 2025, we are taking the opportunity to spotlight one of the most technically ambitious innovations to emerge from this golden era of jewellery design

by Claire Roberts

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.