Chanel: Gabrielle Chanel’s Beloved Screens Inspire the ‘Coromandel’ Collection

August 2, 2018

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

During the multitudes of enchanting fine jewellery showcases at Paris Fashion Week, Chanel débuted its new haute joaillerie collections at the Grand Palais de Paris. What inspired these new designs? What does the mysterious name, ‘Coromandel’, mean? Read on to find out…

The iconic brand’s designers almost seem to be pulling inspiration from a magical box, as they are constantly imagining innovative ideas for new collections based on the brand’s eponymous founder. For starters, there is the everlasting camellia motif, the golden lions, the gentle glow of pearls, and eternal diamonds which decorate so many of Chanel‘s high jewellery pieces. 

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in her Rue Cambon apartment, surrounded by coromandel decorated screens

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in her Rue Cambon apartment, surrounded by coromandel decorated screens

For the latest collection, Chanel’s creative designers took their inspiration from the holy grail of Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel herself – specifically her sacred apartment on the Rue Cambon – and more precisely from the decorated wooden dressing screens she kept there. Depictions of fantastical palaces, clouds, birds of paradise and floral gardens by 17th and 18th century Chinese maestros adorn the screens, which have been decorated with the lacquer painting technique ‘Coromandel’ – popular in the late Ming period – and it is these images that are reflected in Chanel’s vast new jewellery collection.

Chanel ‘Calligraphie Florale’ ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with colourless diamonds, brown diamonds, pink sapphires, black spinels and tsavorite garnets

Chanel ‘Calligraphie Florale’ ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with colourless diamonds, brown diamonds, pink sapphires, black spinels and tsavorite garnets

Having been much enamoured with Chinese art, Gabrielle Chanel discovered a passion for decorated dressing screens back in 1910 through the financier Boy Capel. She considered these pieces a door to personal happiness and contentment, rather than mere objects of interior design. Gabrielle Chanel eagerly added to her collection over time, ultimately accumulating over 30 decorative dressing screens. She also used these screens to change the layout of her rooms, as well as employing them as scenery in her fashion shows, even bequeathing them as presents! Today, there are 8 screens which remain on display at the famous apartments on Rue Cambon.

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

 Chanel 'Précieux Envol' bracelet from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' bracelet from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

 Chanel ‘Précieux Envol’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold, Fancy Deep Brownish Greenish yellow diamond, and diamonds

Chanel ‘Précieux Envol’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold, Fancy Deep Brownish Greenish yellow diamond, and diamonds

 Chanel 'Précieux Envol' earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection

 Chanel 'Précieux Envol' earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection

 The creation of  Chanel 'Précieux Envol' jewellery

The creation of Chanel 'Précieux Envol' jewellery

I’m like a snail, Gabrielle once confessed to Claude Delay. I carry my house around with me […] I take two Chinese screens and books everywhere. I could never live in an open house. The first thing I go looking for is dressing screens.

In tribute both to the Chinese craftsmen who created these coromandel screens and to Gabrielle Chanel, the designers and jewellers of the French house have transformed the principal motifs of these art objects into 59 jewellery pieces, sharing a singular design theme. To strengthen the connection to the Eastern aesthetics alluded to in the collection, Chanel’s designers turned to materials and colours which convey the complex palette of coromandel screens: yellow diamonds, orange spessartite garnets, mysteriously iridescent mother-of-pearl, green Colombian emeralds, ruby beads, fabulous tourmalines – while the black lacquer is reflected in the use of onyx. The rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets and watches included in the complex, elegant collection all espouse one of its three themes: flowers, the animal world, minerals.

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

Chanel 'Précieux Envol' ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

I was most struck by the variety of ways in which the maison’s designers were able to express one theme throughout this particular Chanel collection. Figures, symbols and motives from the wooden dressing screens are represented in monochrome manifestations of white gold and diamonds, in bright gemstone compositions, while some are decorated with stones – yet others in carved jade – and as always there is a nod to the trademark of the house, pearls. The few dozen sets in the ‘Coromandel’ collection range in design from traditional jewellery classics, to the audacious jewellery solution of transformable jewellery. For me, the most memorable piece is a wide bracelet with different shades of diamonds and onyx. The flower theme serves as inspiration for this cuff – which is decorated on two sides, just like a dressing screen – with a rotating Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 3.20 carats. The innovative design means that the diamond is always visible on the wrist, no matter which way you wear the bracelet.

Chanel ‘Fleur De Laque’ watch from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold, yellow gold, cultured pearls, diamonds, black lacquer and mother-of-pearl

Chanel ‘Fleur De Laque’ watch from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold, yellow gold, cultured pearls, diamonds, black lacquer and mother-of-pearl

However, the ‘Horizon Lointain’ necklace was by far the hardest design to execute; including refracting geometric lines, clusters of bezel set diamonds and neatly carved shimmering nacreous clouds – all of which created an extraordinary picture framing an exceptional central 6-carat oval diamond. Another significant design feature of Chanel’s ‘Coromandel’ collection is the use of old-mine diamonds in two rings – I further examined the overall trend for fine jewellery houses employing unexpected diamond cuts in another of my Paris Haute Couture week review articles. This is the first time the French jewellery house has used the old mine stones in a collection of high jewellery art, and many of its sophisticated customers were pleasantly surprised.

Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

 Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

 Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

Chanel ‘Horizon Lointain’ earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and mother-of-pearl

 Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ necklace from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in white gold and diamonds

 Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold and diamonds

Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ earrings from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold and diamonds

 Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold and diamonds

Chanel ‘Impression Florale’ ring from the ‘Coromandel’ collection in yellow gold and diamonds

Given that Chanel’s designers are already hard at work on their next collection, I just cannot wait to find out what surprises are in store for next season – and I’m sure the same goes for you too.

Paris Haute Couture Week: High fashion and jewellery are inseparable!

continue reading

Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

by Sarah Jordan

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.