Royal Love Story: The Duchess of Windsor’s Emerald and Diamond Tiara

October 20, 2020

By Olga Guseva

7 min read

It often seems that royal family members can afford absolutely everything: chic residences, the best cars, outfits by famous couturiers and trips anywhere in the world. In fact, as a rule, for every “yes, you can” there are bound to be 10 “no, you cannots” that are dictated by royal etiquette. Sometimes, however, these traditions are bypassed for the sake of desire. The main role in one of these situations was played by the tiara, which, transformed into a necklace, became a symbol of absolute love.

I will begin with a little bit of background. Royal etiquette requires ladies to wear hats and gloves at every official reception until 6pm. After the designated hour, a white tie event – the most formal of all evening dress codes, also called Full evening dress – obliges married ladies to wear tiaras. A pleasant exception for this accessory is on the occasion of a wedding, and this is where the “but” comes in: the tiara, according to the same royal etiquette, is an item that should be given as a wedding gift by the groom’s family or inherited. It is simply not permissible to buy one of your volition, no matter what the pages of glossy magazines might say. Incidentally, the earrings worn with it should be long and the rings “hidden” under long evening gloves, on top of which a bracelet can be worn.

On the occasion of her wedding to Prince William, Katherine, the Duchess of Cambridge,  wore the Cartier Halo tiara, which was lent to her by the Queen

On the occasion of her wedding to Prince William, Katherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, wore the Cartier Halo tiara, which was lent to her by the Queen

 As royal protocol dictates, Kate wears tiaras for white tie events. Here she is pictured wearing the Lover's Knot tiara

As royal protocol dictates, Kate wears tiaras for white tie events. Here she is pictured wearing the Lover's Knot tiara

 Meghan Markle wore the Queen Mary Bandeau tiara on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Harry

Meghan Markle wore the Queen Mary Bandeau tiara on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Harry

 Princess Eugenie wore the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik tiara on her wedding day, which was lent to her by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth

Princess Eugenie wore the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik tiara on her wedding day, which was lent to her by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth

 Princess Beatrice married in the Queen Mary Fringe tiara,  which Queen Elizabeth also wore on her wedding day

Princess Beatrice married in the Queen Mary Fringe tiara, which Queen Elizabeth also wore on her wedding day

 Princess Diana wore her family tiara, the Spencer tiara, for her marriage to Prince Charles

Princess Diana wore her family tiara, the Spencer tiara, for her marriage to Prince Charles

 Princess Charlotte, daughter of William and Kate, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, is not permitted to wear a tiara until she is to be a bride

Princess Charlotte, daughter of William and Kate, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, is not permitted to wear a tiara until she is to be a bride

 The Swedish Crown Princess Victoria wore a Chaumet tiara decorated with cameos, formerly owned by Queen Hortense, for her marriage to Daniel Westling

The Swedish Crown Princess Victoria wore a Chaumet tiara decorated with cameos, formerly owned by Queen Hortense, for her marriage to Daniel Westling

 Princess Madeleine of Sweden wears the Aquamarine Kokoshnik tiara

Princess Madeleine of Sweden wears the Aquamarine Kokoshnik tiara

 Swedish royal Princess Sofia wears Queen Josephine’s amethyst tiara during a state visit to Canada in 2017

Swedish royal Princess Sofia wears Queen Josephine’s amethyst tiara during a state visit to Canada in 2017

 Queen Rania of Jordan wearing a Cartier tiara, the design of which resembles an intricate floral wreath

Queen Rania of Jordan wearing a Cartier tiara, the design of which resembles an intricate floral wreath

In theory, this ought to be quite a simple rule to adhere to, but of course, that is not always the case. Edward VIII, King of Great Britain, Ireland and the Dominions of the British Empire, and Emperor of India for 10 months from 20 January – 11 December 1936, was never crowned. Following his decision to marry the twice-divorced American socialite Wallis Simpson, there was a general reluctance to accept Simpson as queen consort, and Edward’s refusal to leave her led to his abdication. 

Speaking on BBC Radio, Edward said: I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as King as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.

Wallis Simpson was a great jewellery lover. Here she wears a turquoise, sapphire and diamond brooch and earrings

Wallis Simpson was a great jewellery lover. Here she wears a turquoise, sapphire and diamond brooch and earrings

 Wallis Simpson pictured alongside the Duke of Windsor on her wedding day

Wallis Simpson pictured alongside the Duke of Windsor on her wedding day

 The Cartier engagement ring of the Duchess of Windsor, featuring a 19.77-carat emerald

The Cartier engagement ring of the Duchess of Windsor, featuring a 19.77-carat emerald

 A bejewelled Wallis Simpson alongside Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip

A bejewelled Wallis Simpson alongside Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip

 Pearl jewels were a favourite of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor

Pearl jewels were a favourite of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor

 The Duchess often chose to accessorise with simple strands of pearls

The Duchess often chose to accessorise with simple strands of pearls

 Wallis Simpson pictured once again in her matching turquoise, sapphire and diamond brooch and earrings

Wallis Simpson pictured once again in her matching turquoise, sapphire and diamond brooch and earrings

 The most famous of Wallis Simpson's jewels: the Windsor Amethyst and Turquoise Suite

The most famous of Wallis Simpson's jewels: the Windsor Amethyst and Turquoise Suite

 Wallis Simpson wears a chalcedony suite designed by Suzanne Belperron

Wallis Simpson wears a chalcedony suite designed by Suzanne Belperron

This fashionable couple had a passion for jewellery, with some believing that they collected it as a conscious departure from the traditional royal image. There is no doubt that Wallis Simpson’s jewellery was striking in its splendour. However, there was no tiara in Wallis Simpson’s jewellery collection, nor did any of the relatives of the Duke of Windsor – the title assigned to Edward VIII after his abdication – gift her one on the occasion of her wedding.

Wallis Simpson's iconic Cartier-designed onyx and diamond panther bracelet

Wallis Simpson's iconic Cartier-designed onyx and diamond panther bracelet

The Duke would gladly buy his wife the most incredible pieces, but a tiara was never an option. Whilst he could easily have afforded to purchase one, it would have been considered inappropriate, which would, in turn, have cast doubts on Wallis’s reputation, something that the Duke would never have allowed. Therefore, in 1949, Edward decided on a compromise: he ordered from Cartier a necklace, set with emeralds from his wife’s collection, embellished by the French jeweller with diamonds.

Wallis Simpson's ruby, sapphire and emerald flamingo brooch, designed by Cartier

Wallis Simpson's ruby, sapphire and emerald flamingo brooch, designed by Cartier

 Wallis Simpson's onyx and diamond panther brooch, also by Cartier

Wallis Simpson's onyx and diamond panther brooch, also by Cartier

 Wallis Simpson's Cartier-designed diamond brooch, which was given by the Duke of Windsor to his wife to celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary

Wallis Simpson's Cartier-designed diamond brooch, which was given by the Duke of Windsor to his wife to celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary

 Wallis Simpson's famously colourful necklace, from the Windsor Amethyst and Turquoise Suite

Wallis Simpson's famously colourful necklace, from the Windsor Amethyst and Turquoise Suite

 Wallis Simpson's extraordinary Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, featuring rivers of rubies and diamonds

Wallis Simpson's extraordinary Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, featuring rivers of rubies and diamonds

 Wallis Simpson's sapphire cabochon panther brooch, Cartier, 1949

Wallis Simpson's sapphire cabochon panther brooch, Cartier, 1949

 Wallis Simpson's coral, emerald and diamond choker, Cartier, 1949

Wallis Simpson's coral, emerald and diamond choker, Cartier, 1949

The necklace was ingeniously designed so that it could also be worn as a headpiece. Emerald beads became the base of the necklace, over which towered double diamond arches. The Duchess of Windsor wore this tiara-shaped jewel only a few times because whilst she was famous for her breathtaking collection of jewellery, tiaras were not integral to her dazzling look.

In 1949 Edward, the Duke of Windsor, commissioned Cartier to create a necklace for his wife, Wallis Simpson, that could also be worn as a headpiece and featured emeralds from her private collection

In 1949 Edward, the Duke of Windsor, commissioned Cartier to create a necklace for his wife, Wallis Simpson, that could also be worn as a headpiece and featured emeralds from her private collection

The relationship between the Duke and Duchess of Windsor was called “the most beautiful love story of the 20th century” by the tabloids. The incredible story of a couple in love, who united their destinies for life, is inextricably intertwined with the history of some magnificent jewellery that is still legendary even today.

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