Centuries of Staying Power: The Incredible True Story of Bixler’s, America’s Oldest Jeweller

History is currency in the world of luxury fine jewellery. It represents longevity, the ability to weather storms, survive changing trends, and adapt to the demands that each new generation places on designers and craftspeople. When I hear that a business has survived ten years or twenty years, I appreciate the hard work that it takes to succeed, but when I find out a business has been continuously operating for more than 240 years… well, I simply must find out more. Recently, I had the pleasure of being introduced to Bixler’s, which is notable for its continued independence. And, speaking of independence, it’s worth acknowledging that the company is almost as old as the United States itself! Let me tell you more about its fascinating history, the people behind its continued success, and spotlight the fine jewellery collections that have maintained its relevance in the modern era.

The word legacy is often overused, don’t you think? In my mind, it’s not just about things being passed down from one generation to another. Genuine legacy is transmitting values, purpose and skills through time, no matter what’s happening in the world or the ways in which it’s changing. I suppose that’s what makes a company like Bixler’s so enduring. Even after 241 years, its core ethos and sense of what makes excellent jewellery, artistry and craftsmanship haven’t changed.

A History of Savoir-Faire

Let’s imagine ourselves in Easton, Pennsylvania in 1785. The United States of America is nine years old, and Pennsylvania has played a key role in the American Revolution. Christian Bixler III purchases land from the nephew of William Penn, the founder of the Province of Pennsylvania in the late 1700s. At this time, Bixler is a master Swiss clockmaker and a Revolutionary War veteran who’s ready to bring the intricacy and precision of watchmaking to jewellery. In purchasing this pocket of land, the Bixler story has officially commenced.

In 1825, Christian Bixler III’s son, Daniel, was the first in what will become a long line of descendants to take on the running of the family jewellery store. Each new generation added its own spin, while also ensuring the business was continuously operating, even during the ravages of the Great Depression and the Second World War. On its website, Bixler’s shares photos of a special telegram it received from Tiffany & Co. in 1965, saying: “Heartiest congrats on your 180th anniversary. You are fifty-two years older than we are. We bow to you on your birthday.” Then, a decade later, the House reached out again, describing Bixler’s as “not only the oldest but one of the finest jewellers in America”.

So much of the company’s history, from paperwork and telegrams to physical objects, has been preserved and photographed. In the wider sense, it’s a record of the history of America too, and the ways in which design and business ownership have changed with time. Fast forward to today, and its Joyce Welken, the great-great-great-great-great-great-granddaughter of Christian Bixler III, who represents the interest of her family’s legacy, alongside present-day CEO, Perry Sporn.

Just as carefully preserved is the quality of craftsmanship that has defined Bixler’s for generations. The company prides itself on standards comparable to those of the great European jewellery maisons, with signature milgrain detailing among its specialities. Bixler’s credits itself with introducing this intricate technique to the industry, while its commitment to using only natural diamonds is another hallmark of the House. The precision of its workmanship extends to polishing under a microscope and rigorous quality checks between each stage of production. These are details that may escape the eye of the wearer, but they speak volumes about the skill and attention to detail involved in creating every Bixler’s jewel.

Legacy and Longevity

Despite all this incredible stability, there have been some changes at Bixler’s, too. In 2015, Joyce entrusted the ownership of Bixler’s to entrepreneur and jewellery-maker Perry Sporn, the founder of Perrywinkle’s Jewellers in Burlington, Vermont. At that point, manufacturing was moved to a sustainable atelier in Montreal, Canada, making this a new chapter in the business’ North American story.

“In Perry, I saw a lot of passion, first and foremost,” Joyce explains. “He carries around sketches for pieces that he draws himself, just like our founder did. Perry understands that Bixler's was the beginning of an American art form. He knows that if we were to go overseas for cheaper labour and move to mass-producing pieces, we would lose something very special. I know that my family’s legacy is in good hands because what our founder believed in is what Perry believes in. And this goes beyond the meticulous crafting. Our founder loved his community and his customers. Perry understands what these pieces mean to people.”

The ‘Made in North America’ label that Bixler’s uses on its website isn’t just for show; it signifies that each piece is designed, crafted and shipped from a single point of origin, which is surprisingly rare in the 21st-century jewellery business. The company also offers complimentary cleaning, inspection, and resizing services as needed, whether a piece was purchased in the 1950s, the 1980s, or just last week.

Another phrase that appears regularly on the company’s website is “we are who we are”. It’s true that smoke and mirrors occasionally play a role in the international jewellery trade. Not always nefariously, but simply because there are lots of moving parts, disparate supply chains, and different stakeholders playing a role in design, development, manufacturing, sales, marketing and so on. Bixler’s, on the other hand, has much greater control over its identity and output. Perry Sporn explains: “We are not beholden to a big corporation. We are not spread out all over the world. We are here under one roof, where our customers can see their pieces being made.”

Perry also believes in the idea of a “race to the top,” which is something I wholeheartedly support too. Rather than trying to cut corners to save money, he believes in digging deep, returning to a smaller and more family-oriented business model that creates fewer pieces of the most exceptional quality. “To secure this industry’s future as a true art form, I had to look to its past,” he explains. “With Bixler’s, we imagine a new competitive landscape […] one where quality craftsmanship and sustainable processes are a matter of course. America was once a nation of craftspeople who took great pride in working with their hands. We can be that again. We can bring prestige back to North American handcraft to rival the finest from anywhere. 

While Perry’s ambitions for Bixler’s extend far beyond Pennsylvania, the company has never lost its connection to where it all began. Joyce Welken continues to serve customers in person at the Bixler’s storefront in Allentown, just a 30-minute drive from its original home in Easton. And thanks to its eBoutique, customers in North America can now discover and shop its jewellery online.

Responsibility Matters

As you can probably recognise, Bixler’s is absolutely dedicated to responsible craftsmanship and sustainability. In April 2023, the company was independently audited and awarded full Certification under the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Code of Practices – one of the most rigorous ethical standards in the jewellery world.

Every Bixler’s piece is made with 100% repurposed precious metals, powered by 99% renewable energy sources, and entirely crafted in North America with no outsourcing. And in keeping with its commitment to transparency, its doors are always open to customers for atelier tours and even livestreams of their bespoke commissions being made, all in open dialogue with the artisans at the bench.

An Emphasis on Artistry

It is a testament to the strength of Bixler’s story that it sounds so compelling, even without a single mention of its core collections or its signature style. My first impressions were that its pieces are timeless, classical, and very oriented towards the modern woman who needs her jewellery to transition from daywear to evening attire. Bixler’s designs feel adaptable and ‘useful’, so much so that I can imagine a woman turning to a pair of earrings or a pendant multiple times in a single week, even if her outfit changes from casual to formal and back again.

On its website, you will find cool coloured gemstone jewels that serve as everyday pick-me-ups, set with malachite, amethyst, peridot, citrine and rhodolite, among others. Another of its categories – simply named Fine Jewellery – incorporates a wearable suite of classic diamond-set pieces, including rings, hoops and bracelets in tennis-style layouts.

Where the brand really comes into its own is in its named fine jewellery collections: Interlinked, Hologlam, Origin and Sculpture. Each feels incredibly well conceived, containing just the right number of complementary pieces without being too tightly curated or expansive. Crafted in 18k yellow gold and contrasting platinum, Origin features elevated surfaces of pavé natural diamonds that are concave in shape. Aptly described as ‘floating’, the effect is best seen in a series of shapely rings and pretty stud earrings. Hologlam has a slightly more corporate, city-sophisticated feel, with neat squares of gold, edged in Bixler’s signature milgrain detailing and punctuated with princess-cut diamonds. These are juxtaposed perfectly by the Sculpture Collection that is full of shape, movement and expression, including teardrops and fluid forms covered in the sparkle of white diamonds.

Lastly, there’s the Interlinked Collection, which centres on chains with soft, rounded links and more angular, geometric pieces set with natural diamonds in 18k yellow gold. I particularly like the Interlinked Lanyard Bracelet, featuring 18k gold and diamond links, threaded with a soft satin cord. Each bracelet comes with three interchangeable lanyards, so you can switch colours to suit your mood, your outfit or even the season. It's a clever way of giving a piece of fine jewellery a more versatile, personal feel.

Beyond the Collections: Bixler’s High Jewellery

Bixler’s also has a high jewellery offering, with one-of-a-kind creations that embrace both classic elegance and contemporary design. Magnificent diamond necklaces, emerald and ruby rings, and blue sapphire drop earrings sit alongside more unusual gemstones and fresh interpretations of jewellery classics.

I particularly love the Puffed Diamond Halo pieces, which feature wine-red rhodolite cabochons surrounded by generously rounded halos of natural diamonds. There’s something wonderfully bold about the proportions of the matching ring, earrings and pendant, with the contrast between the smooth, domed rhodolites and the intricate diamond settings giving the designs a beautiful sense of depth and texture.

Another piece that grabbed my attention is the multi-shape diamond tennis bracelet, which brings a much more contemporary feel to this jewellery classic, alternating pear, princess, emerald, oval and other diamond cuts, bezel set in 18k yellow gold.  It's lovely to see a jeweller with more than two centuries of history injecting playfulness into its high jewellery designs.

People, Places, Pride

What stands out most to me about Bixler’s is its sense of self. The company knows itself and the values it stands by, so much so that you can get a strong sense of its character and purpose even before diving into the jewels. Perry Sporn adds: “When it comes to delivering excellence and uncompromised quality for our clients, we’ve never strayed and never will. We want our customers to experience the centuries of trust behind who we are.”

Finally, there was another phrase that caught my eye on the brand’s website: “We remain forever curious.” With all this talk of the past, I think what makes Bixler’s special is its approach to innovation, staying ahead of the market, and focusing wholeheartedly on sustainability and responsible manufacturing. I predict it is this independent, curious mindset that will help Bixler’s exist for many more generations to come.