The Art of Play: Inside VESCOVI Milano’s New Vision for High Jewellery

When I was invited to visit the new VESCOVI showroom in Milan, I was, of course, expecting Italian craftsmanship of the highest order. What I wasn’t anticipating was quite how interactive my meeting would be. As soon as founders Shirazeh Ghaffari and her son, Federico Vescovi, placed their signature jewellery collection, ODEA, in front of me, I was immediately captivated by its playful nature and began experimenting with the different coloured links and chains. Before long, I had created several necklace, bracelet and earring configurations of my own that represented a fresh, new perspective on jewellery personalisation.

My experience perfectly captured the thinking behind VESCOVI. This is high jewellery that encourages the wearer to experiment with different lengths, colour pairings and ways of styling. There is no single “correct” way to wear Shirazeh and Federico’s designs, only the arrangements that feel right for the individual.

Now, you might be wondering how the mother-and-son duo came up with this concept. To discover their journey, let’s start with their background. For decades, Shirazeh has been creating high jewellery for others, until one day when she was ready to step into the light and present her vision to the world with her own jewellery company. Although VESCOVI is a new name, the expertise behind it stretches back more than half a century. Ghaffari has designed, developed and manufactured high jewellery for some of the world’s most prestigious maisons. It is this experience that has convinced her that exceptional high jewellery should adapt to the lives of the people who wear it, never the other way around.

Working alongside her is Federico Vescovi, whose route into the family business combines a lifelong immersion in jewellery with studies in business law, gemmology, watchmaking and business strategy. Together, Shirazeh and Federico share the same vision for VESCOVI: to honour the traditions of Italian craftsmanship while creating contemporary high jewellery designed to become part of the lives and memories of those who wear it.

“I believe that jewellery should not be kept in a safe,” Shirazeh told me while combining links in a necklace for me. “You are not taking your safe with you when you go on vacation.” As a woman who always travels with my jewellery, I found myself nodding in agreement. The jewels I love most are the ones that have become part of my everyday life, accompanying me on my travels, to meetings and to celebrations alike. 

“A piece of jewellery has to be a part of you,” the designer continued. “The colours you choose should reflect who you are... the choice is yours and the combination is yours.” VESCOVI’s signature high jewellery collection ODEA brilliantly brings that belief to life, with versatility built into every jewel from the very beginning.

The Italian Touch

Believing that high jewellery should be worn every day is one thing. Designing jewels that people genuinely want to wear is another. I have often noticed that Italian jewellery, regardless of its scale, is remarkably comfortable, whether in the form of cocktail rings, chunky necklaces or statement earrings.

She attributes this approach to a different way of thinking: “Italians wear jewellery daily and think long term.”  This means that instead of chasing novelty, great jewellery should be created with decades of wear in mind, with comfort, balance and durability considered from the very first sketch. These uniquely Italian principles are beautifully expressed in ODEA, where versatility has been built into every jewel from the outset.

The Debut of ODEA: Transforming the Way We Wear High Jewellery

Now, let’s dive into the collection itself. Comprising nine one-of-a-kind high jewellery suites crafted in 18k yellow gold and platinum, ODEA is designed around a simple yet distinctive motif: the oval. Each link is completely pavé-set in diamonds or coloured gemstones, with rubies, sapphires, tsavorites and champagne diamonds offering a vibrant palette of interchangeable colour. Repeated in large, medium and small sizes as well as different gemstone combinations, the oval is the thread that unites the whole collection. Hidden within the seamless pavé surface of each modular oval link is a discreet opening mechanism that allows the wearer to unclip it and click it securely back into place. Creating this simple mechanism was a big challenge that fell to Federico Vescovi, who is responsible for the artistic, qualitative and technical development of every creation.  

To achieve a high level of flexibility without compromising beauty or comfort, he spent almost two years refining the collection. He went through multiple trials with link sizes and gem calibres for the pavé setting to make sure that the result looks uniform, like an uninterrupted blanket of gemstones.

The engineering is almost invisible, so the wearer notices only the jewel, never the mechanism. Within minutes I found myself swapping and combining links, and before long I had discovered combinations I hadn’t expected to like. I must say that I quickly forgot I was handling high jewellery and simply enjoyed exploring the different possibilities. This is the true beauty of the ODEA collection.

The Connectors

Complementing the interchangeable oval links are two chain designs that draw on Italy’s rich tradition of chain making. One is a belcher chain in 18k yellow gold; the other is a fully articulated pavé-set chain, available in either yellow gold or platinum. Although every visible surface is set with diamonds, the pavé chain is remarkably fluid, draping with the suppleness of polished gold, with the same articulated construction echoed in ODEA’s signature bracelet.

Throughout the collection, VESCOVI’s sculptural hook fastening allows the jewels to be lengthened, shortened and reconfigured with ease. Unlike many transformable jewels, the fastening has been designed to be operated easily by the wearer, without assistance. As I already mentioned, each jewel is thought through to the smallest details and designed for comfort.

While at the showroom in Milan, I set my imagination free and transformed a short necklace into a lariat, then a longer necklace. By adding a few more links, I even transformed the same necklace into a belt. I mixed some pavé-set and polished gold chains with interchangeable gemstone links.

The variety of combinations seemed endless! And if you are looking to take the concept even further, VESCOVI also offers ODEA Bespoke. Working directly with the House’s team, you can compose your own suites, selecting gemstone combinations and colour palettes to reflect your individual taste. 

A New Jewellery House with Long-Term Ambitions

Having left the showroom, I felt that ODEA was the perfect introduction to the values that will guide the jewellery company in the years ahead. Production is intentionally limited, every jewel is handmade in Italy using only natural gemstones, and VESCOVI’s entire supply chain is certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council. Rather than pursuing rapid expansion, the founders are focused on creating a house that grows slowly and deliberately through carefully chosen partnerships that reflect its own values. “We like to go our own way,” Federico Vescovi told me. “It will obviously be slower, but we want to build something that is going to last.” 

This measured approach extends beyond the jewels. VESCOVI is also a proud supporter of the Teatro alla Scala, Milan’s world-renowned opera house. It is a fitting expression of the House’s connection to a city whose reputation has been built on centuries of artistry, craftsmanship and creative ambition.

Spending time with Shirazeh Ghaffari and Federico Vescovi, I was struck by how naturally every conversation flowed from one detail to the next. A discussion about coloured gemstones led to engineering, engineering led to comfort, and comfort led to Italian craftsmanship. Nothing existed in isolation because that is simply not how they think about jewellery. Every element of ODEA is connected, born of decades of experience and an extraordinary depth of knowledge.

What is clear is that ODEA has been created by people who genuinely love high jewellery and, perhaps more importantly, want others to enjoy wearing it just as much. For me, that is exactly how high jewellery should feel: something to wear, live with and make your own.