The launch of this 140-piece high jewellery collection marked the brand's 140th anniversary, featuring a 140-carat diamond - I see what you did there, Bvlgari! This milestone was celebrated in the brand's hometown, Rome, with the Eternal City providing an atmospheric backdrop for the launch of the collection. Lucia Silvestri was quick to highlight the uniqueness of each piece in the offering, explaining: "The Aeterna collection boasts colourful and bright creations, each one different from the other in terms of creativity, design and inspiration." In other words, from vintage geometric designs to large juicy gemstones, Bvlgari has got us covered.
Bvlgari’s Gemstone Legacy
It's no secret that Bvlgari is fond of using large gemstones throughout its collections. In fact, it has been doing so for over 50 years. Bvlgari's audacious jewels were a hit in Hollywood during the mid-20th century, with A-list celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Anita Ekberg discovering the Via Condotti store in Rome. Known as the "master of coloured gemstones," Bvlgari has a long history of showcasing the world's largest and most exquisite stones.
When I look at the Sapphire Aeterna Waves necklace, for example, I am transported to the Mediterranean on a hot summer night. The deep-sea blue of the sapphires and diamonds resembles moonlight sparkling on the water. At the heart of this piece is a 38.93-carat cushion-cut sapphire. The Serpenti Chiseled necklace is another example of Bvlgari's love for large minerals, this time in the form of a 77.78-carat pear-shaped rubellite guarded by its signature Serpenti motif.
Whispers of History
Elizabeth Taylor, a lifelong Bvlgari fan, often visited the Via Condotti boutique while filming 'Cleopatra' in Rome in 1962. On her 40th birthday, her husband, Richard Burton, gave her a sapphire sautoir, which soon became one of her favourite pieces in her collection. The necklace featured a pavé-set diamond octagonal pendant set with a sugarloaf cabochon 52.72-carat sapphire. If you ask me, were Taylor still alive today, there's no doubt she would be falling for the Monete Aeterna Augustus Emerald sautoir. Taking inspiration from the heritage collection, this necklace is a magnificent ode to the brand's Roman roots. The pendant's octagonal frame, featuring 80 buff-top emeralds and pavé-set diamonds, surrounds the ancient coin within. The coin displays the profile of the first Roman emperor, Augustus, who transformed the architectural and artistic landscape of ancient Rome.
Crafted with Care
Crafting jewellery at such a high standard is no small feat. Every piece in the Bvlgari Aeterna collection undergoes rigorous inspection at each step of its creation, from the initial design sketches to the final polishing. But the star of the show, according to Silvestri, is the bright green 31.07-carat oval-cut emerald on the Tubogas Flower of Time. She says: "The gemstone, exceptional for its substantial carat weight, intense colour, and transparency, is enhanced by an engraved floral motif reflecting the Maison's craftsmanship expertise."
"The combination of emerald green with the vivid tones of rubellite, combined with the modernity of yellow gold tubogas, make this creation an emblem of timeless elegance," Lucia Silvestri.
Transformative Treasures
Transformable jewellery has a rich history, dating back to times when royalty and aristocrats valued pieces that could be adapted for various occasions. Such versatility allows a single piece to be worn in multiple ways, such as converting a necklace into a bracelet or earrings into a hair accessory.
Adaptable jewellery is embedded in Bvlgari's jewellery DNA, and today, it finds a new expression in the Sapphire Aeterna Waves necklace. This exquisite piece features a detachable 38.93-carat sapphire pendant that can be worn separately as a brooch. When the pendant is removed, the remaining gemstones take the limelight, with a 1.31-carat brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by an array of diamonds and buff-top sapphires.
Sumptuous Cabochons
The Lotus Cabochon necklace is a masterpiece in turquoise, purple, green and pink with its vibrant colours and intriguing pebble-like texture. This flamboyant creation mimics the silhouette of a tailored suit collar, featuring organic, sinuous lines that, in Silvestri's words, "take the shape of a lotus flower, a symbol of eternal rebirth across cultures" – and makes this piece one of her favourites in the collection. She continues: "Here colourful cabochon gemstones and bold geometries come together in a contemporary design that draws inspiration from an archival piece reimagined with modern creativity.” The necklace features a mesmerising array of cabochons set using a technique called 'Tapettino,' which is Italian for carpet weaving. The rich rubellite, striking turquoise, vivid emerald, and deep amethysts are set on a plush gold base, creating a carpet-like effect.
Mosaic Masterpieces
The Mosaic of Time necklace is a tribute to Rome and stands as one of the most intricate and technically challenging creations in the Aeterna High Jewellery collection. Comprising 150 distinct modules, the necklace forms a beautiful mosaic of diverse colours and gem cuts. Its delicate scalloped silhouette, rendered in a gentle pastel palette, combines pear-shaped Paraiba tourmalines, cushion-cut pink tourmalines, turquoises, buff-top emeralds, pavé-set diamonds, and contrasting onyx and mother-of-pearl details, and is a real celebration of creativity and craftsmanship. The necklace is complemented by a matching watch and ring. The ring features a striking central cushion of Paraiba tourmaline, surrounded by a mosaic of turquoise, onyx, and 20 buff-top emeralds.
Diamonds to Die For
Here, unusually, Bvlgari steers away from coloured gemstones and puts the diamond centre stage. The Serpenti Aeterna necklace, for instance, is a real scene-stealer, featuring seven D-coloured, ultra-clear pear-shaped diamonds of 140-carats in total, cut from a single rough diamond of over 200 carats, set in a sinuous, three-dimensional wave structure in platinum, embellished with 698 baguette diamonds weighing a total of 61.81 carats.
Pretty in Pink
The Earth Song Necklace is a stunning celebration of nature's hidden wonders, masterfully uniting vibrant gems in a design that embodies Bvlgari's signature balance of strength and grace. Featuring a robust gourmette chain, this piece showcases the sunny combination of pink tourmaline, amethyst, kunzite, topaz, green tourmalines, and round-cut diamonds. The open settings allow light to shine through the gemstones, mirroring the colours of the sea, sky and land.
Eternal Symbols
Bvlgari's 140th-anniversary collection is a testament to its legacy of innovation, craftsmanship, and a celebration of nature's beauty, transforming earthly treasures into timeless works of art. But throughout the collection, Bvlgari also infuses cultural symbolism into its jewellery designs, creating pieces that tell a story or represent a particular heritage or tradition. For instance, motifs like the lotus flower symbolise eternal rebirth, while ancient coins highlight historical significance.
The Terra Mater Serpenti Necklace stands out as an ode to nature's treasures. Incorporating the scales of the brand's Serpenti motif, which represents rebirth and transformation, this exquisite piece features a verdant Colombian emerald, symbolising the ancient Roman personification of Mother Earth, Terra Mater. Guarded by its own Serpenti, the emerald sings an ancient melody that breathes life into each facet.
Setting the Standard
Precision is the key to Bvlgari's setting of each gemstone, creating brilliance and beauty. Pavé settings, where small diamonds are close together, lend a continuous sparkle and are prominently featured in pieces like the Sapphire Aeterna Waves necklace. Open settings are used to maximise the internal light reflections, such as the Earth Song Necklace, a technique that allows light to pass through the gemstones, enhancing their natural brilliance and colour. The collection features a mix of traditional cuts like cushion, pear, and emerald, alongside more contemporary, and custom cuts. For instance, the 38.93-carat cushion-cut sapphire in the Sapphire Aeterna Waves necklace showcases Bvlgari's ability to make use of traditional cuts that emphasise the gem's colour and clarity. Meanwhile, the Lotus Cabochon necklace employs cabochon cuts that create a smooth, polished surface, enhancing the stones' natural lustre and depth.
The Aeterna collection stands out as a brilliant display of Bvlgari's unmatched expertise in high jewellery. Each piece in the collection not only reflects the brand's rich heritage but also showcases its commitment to the game. From the use of large, vibrant gemstones to meticulous attention to detail in gem settings and cuts, Bvlgari has once again demonstrated why it’s trailblazing the world of high jewellery. This summer, the Aeterna collection has undoubtedly stolen the spotlight.
