Gemstone Combinations: Discovering the Veschetti Approach to Colour

When I think of Veschetti I think of the statement designs, the inlay technique, the brave combinations of opaque and transparent gemstones but also… a rich palette of colours used in so many Veschetti designs. “Colour is a power which directly influences the soul,” famous Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky once said, and I cannot agree more.

In the past I talked to the brand’s directors about their approach to using gemstones, their design inspirations, Italian maximalism, and the use of hardstones in jewellery. Now, I’d like to focus on the Veschetti’s instantly recognisable mixing of colours, let those be complementing or contrasting hues used to highlight the beauty of jewels.

When I visited Jewellery Arabia fair back in November, I was excited to discover what novelties the brand came up with in the last months. I was guided through some of these pieces in Bahrain by Veschetti’s chief marketing officer and global head of brand development, Chiara Fantinelli Veschetti. The first thing that caught my eye was a suite of carved rock crystal jewels set in buttery 18k yellow gold. Next, there was a kunzite cocktail ring with bubble-gum pink juxtaposed against deep green and a matching set of carved turquoise rings inlaid with emeralds and diamonds. This is the type of colour work that makes Veschetti stand out from the crowd and makes for fabulously eye-catching jewellery photographs!

Having existed since 1947, Veschetti has maintained an air of opulent 1950s glamour by using colour liberally and adventurously across cocktail rings, earrings, and statement necklaces, which are the ultimate look-at-me accessory. Here’s what Chiara had to say about the brand’s approach to colour, plus some images of the pieces that made me stop for a closer look at Jewellery Arabia.

Katerina Perez: Talk us through the Veschetti design process. How do you go about creating a new piece, especially with your signature large gemstones?

Chiara Fantinelli Veschetti: Sometimes, when we are talking about pieces with big stones, we start with the stone. We find special gemstones, and from that stone, an idea comes, and we start to understand how we can set it. In our jewellery, the most important thing is the style and making wearable jewels. If you find an amazing stone, you must also think about how to make the jewel wearable. Usually, we use the very big stones for bracelets and sometimes necklaces, but that is a little bit trickier. Other times, we have ideas, which are from the past and vintage jewellery, which we then try and give a contemporary, modern touch.

KP: What about carved gemstones? Do you create carvings, especially for pieces or find gemstones that fit your requirements?

CFV: It depends, but mostly, we find the carved pieces and set them. We love using carved stones because they have more soul and more character. We are very inspired by nature, light, and the beauty we have all around in Italy. Typically, we use carved stones for necklaces and reserve top-quality gemstones for classical pieces, such as ruby and diamond or emerald and diamond necklaces and rings.

KP: What does the process of designing multi-tonal jewellery at Veschetti look like behind the scenes? Can you share some insights?

CFV: My brother-in-law Marco Veschetti takes care of production and design. When we have ideas, we are just like all family companies and will share them together. When Laura [Veschetti] and I have ideas, he is the one who tells us, ‘Yes, we can make it’ or ‘No, because it’s not wearable or too expensive’. When we produce, we also have to think about the price. We always use natural, unheated stones that can be quite costly, so there has to be a balance. In terms of designing jewellery, I think this is a very natural process that stems from our Italian heritage. We were born into the beauty and colours of Italy. Art in Italy, in ancient Italy, is full of colours, and I think combining colours is something we have in our DNA.

KP: I have always considered Italian women to be more perceptive of various coloured gems in comparison to say, French and British customers, who prefer more emerald, ruby and sapphire sets with classical designs. What are your thoughts?

CFV: The combination of colours, of hardstones and precious stones, is not in their DNA. But this is something we really love. I think when you combine rare and very precious stones with coloured hardstones, the hardstones give them more life creating the necessary contrast. Diamonds are ‘easier’, but with colour, women can showcase more of their own personality; they can express more of themselves.

KP: Are there any colour schemes or pairings that Veschetti is particularly known for? 

CFV: For sure the use of turquoise with emeralds and coral with lapis lazuli or jade. We also love to use rock crystal. It’s not really a ‘precious’ material, but when carved in a particular way and paired with yellow gold, it adds a lot of life and creates something very ethereal. This is very Veschetti. Sometimes, it’s difficult to work with some stones that are more delicate. When we think about colours, we must be careful to choose stones that aren’t too fragile.

KP: Another thing that makes your brand stand out is the way you use bright and bold gemstones at scale. Does this make creating elegant jewels more difficult?

CFV: Sometimes, yes, because there is a fine line between elegant, refined and too opulent or chunky. I think with our designs, we never compromise on the elegance, and it’s always something that is a part a woman’s outfit and we believe it adds character.

My conversations with the Veschetti team demonstrate that finding the perfect combination of coloured gemstones is all about balance, both creatively and practically, to ensure wearability, affordability, and comfort. When all factors are meticulously considered, the results are bold, dimensional, and statement pieces with that instantly recognisable Veschetti DNA. If you are inspired by colour and Italian craftsmanship, this is the perfect place to start.