Paris Haute Couture Week: Fashion-led designs find their way into high jewellery

July 31, 2018

By Jodie Smith

6 min read

Traditionally, during the first week of July a selection of the most renowned, revered and skilled maisons present their latest collections as part of the Paris Haute Couture novelties showcase. Having seen what the unique Place Vendôme brands introduced this year, I could not help noticing that fashion-led designs have actually found their way into Haute Joaillerie.

Fine jewellery and luxury houses such as De Beers, Chanel, Boucheron, Dior and Tasaki have all embraced recent fashion trends as well as original ways of wearing jewellery. Their designers obviously keep in mind the style and taste of the millennials who have become viable jewellery consumers over the course of the last few years. Having their own original taste, this new generation of clients have created a noticeable shift in the types of jewellery that the most famous maisons create.

href=”https://www.debeers.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>De Beers

De Beers remain one of the most important diamantaires in the world, and so when their jewellery design is seen to be adapting to recent trends, the entire industry is sure to take note. As a part of their ‘Diamond Legends’ collection they introduced the ‘Cupid’ ear climbers that can be worn together or with one statement ear diamond stud, and the earring is also transformable, since the 1.80ct pear cut diamond drops can be detached! Both of these design elements have been some of the most popular trends in contemporary jewellery – in fashion jewellery and high jewellery – of recent years.

The making of De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

The making of De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

href=”https://www.dior.com/en_us” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Dior

One brand who has embraced several jewellery design trends this season is Dior. Victoire de Castellane created a collection which comprised of broad double finger rings, chokers, palm bracelets, asymmetrical earrings – and most interestingly – a connected bracelet and ring ‘hand jewellery’ piece. While chokers are a simple nod to recent trends across the entire jewellery industry and asymmetrical earrings were presented by several houses, this design is completely unique among the Paris Haute Couture showcases.

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold and diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold and diamonds

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Noire’ earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opals, sapphires, emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Noire’ earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opals, sapphires, emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines

 Dior ‘Dentelle Popeline Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and Paraiba tourmaline

Dior ‘Dentelle Popeline Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and Paraiba tourmaline

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Blanc’ earrings in yellow gold, diamonds, opals, sapphires and emeralds

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Blanc’ earrings in yellow gold, diamonds, opals, sapphires and emeralds

 Dior  ‘Dentelle Tulle illusion Émeraude' ring in yellow gold, sapphires and diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle illusion Émeraude' ring in yellow gold, sapphires and diamonds

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Émeraude’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and blue spinels

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Émeraude’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and blue spinels

 Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Rose’ hand jewellery in white gold, diamonds and pink spinels

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Rose’ hand jewellery in white gold, diamonds and pink spinels

href=”https://us.boucheron.com/en_us/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Boucheron

To celebrate their 160-year anniversary, Boucheron decided to create new interpretations of the theme of nature in their ‘Naturaliste’ collection that featured their signature leaf motif ‘Lierre de Paris’ and ‘Cigale des Neiges’ lines. Featuring double finger rings and asymmetrical earrings, this simple adaptation of traditional jewellery styles displays the maison’s ability to move with the times, nodding to classic jewellery whilst still alluding to current trends.

Boucheron ‘Cigale des Neiges’ double ring in diamonds and white gold

Boucheron ‘Cigale des Neiges’ double ring in diamonds and white gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and yellow gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and white gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and white gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ double ring in diamonds and yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ double ring in diamonds and yellow gold

href=”http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Chanel

Chanel’s unusual ‘Évocation florale’ cocktail ring offsets the expected ring design by shifting the feature gemstone – in this case a beautiful and rare 12.05 carat mint green tsavorite garnet – to one side. This asymmetrical design style has become common in open ended rings, where frequently gems sit between the fingers rather than sitting flush in the centre of them.

Chanel 'Bague Evocation Florale' ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with 12.05ct mint tsavorite, pink sapphires, diamonds and tourmalines

Chanel 'Bague Evocation Florale' ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with 12.05ct mint tsavorite, pink sapphires, diamonds and tourmalines

href=”https://www.tasaki-global.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Tasaki

Taking on one of the most innovative design ideas which I witnessed at Paris Haute Couture week; Tasaki created a pearl and gold double sided earring in their Nacreos an Moulin collections. Both designs clamber into the ear, while the earring curves forward and over the earlobe.

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

 Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

 Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and yellow gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and yellow gold

Paris Haute Couture week is a showcase which the industry looks to for inspiration, leading the way in trends and approaches to presenting fine jewellery. It is undeniably exciting to see these famous luxury houses take note of trends in the broader jewellery world.

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