Paris Haute Couture Week: Fancy cut diamonds in high jewellery art

July 16, 2018

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

Every year in the first week of July, high jewellery art is presented as part of Paris Haute Couture Week. In just a few days, you can view pieces from over a dozen eminent houses, enabling you to accurately identify new trends in the high jewellery sector. One of the most obvious trends this year was the use of fancy cut diamonds, and unusual combinations of traditional cuts of these stones.

Diamonds are probably the most sought-after precious gems in the world, and one can say with absolute certainty that there is no outstanding jewellery collection presented without at least one jewel incorporating diamonds. But despite the fact that each house uses this same natural treasure, the results can differ vastly…

Chanel ‘Fleur de Diamant’ ring from the ‘Coromandes’ collection with central oval shaped old cut diamond, accenting diamonds and white gold

Chanel ‘Fleur de Diamant’ ring from the ‘Coromandes’ collection with central oval shaped old cut diamond, accenting diamonds and white gold

 Chanel ‘Precieux Envol’ ring from the ‘Coromandes’ collection with central pear shaped old cut diamond, accenting diamonds and white gold

Chanel ‘Precieux Envol’ ring from the ‘Coromandes’ collection with central pear shaped old cut diamond, accenting diamonds and white gold

For the first time in the history of the Chanel Joaillerie, the French brand has introduced jewellery with old cut diamonds. Two rings – the ‘Precieux Envol’ with a pear cut stone, and the ‘Fleur de Diamant’ with an oval diamond – have become part of the extensive ‘Coromandel’ collection. The main distinctive features of these stones from the modern ones is that they have a strongly pronounced culet, and when you look at the stone from above, you see a an obvious dark area in the centre. However, this only gives old-mine diamonds a certain charm, demonstrating their unique character.

De Beers 'Vulcan' ring with 3.53 ct pear cut diamond surrounded by rough diamonds in a variety of cuts and colours

De Beers 'Vulcan' ring with 3.53 ct pear cut diamond surrounded by rough diamonds in a variety of cuts and colours

 De Beers 'Vulcan' ring with 2.52 ct round brilliant cut diamond surrounded by rough diamonds in a variety of cuts and colours

De Beers 'Vulcan' ring with 2.52 ct round brilliant cut diamond surrounded by rough diamonds in a variety of cuts and colours

 De Beers 'Vulcan' bracelet with rough and cut diamonds in a variety of natural colours

De Beers 'Vulcan' bracelet with rough and cut diamonds in a variety of natural colours

 De Beers 'Vulcan' bracelet and ring with rough and cut diamonds in a variety of natural colours

De Beers 'Vulcan' bracelet and ring with rough and cut diamonds in a variety of natural colours

The De Beers jewellery house specialises exclusively in diamond jewellery, so its designers use this stone in all its many forms, including its natural one. When a diamond is formed in kimberlite, it looks like a cube with an oily surface which dampens its shine. In spite of a rough diamond’s modest appearance, it is more than suitable for use in high jewellery art. And that is what the De Beers jewellery masters have proven in creating the ‘Vulcan’ set for the newest ‘Diamond Legends’ collection.

Messika 'Spears' choker, from the 'Once Upon a Time' collection in 70ct of pear and marquise cut diamonds

Messika 'Spears' choker, from the 'Once Upon a Time' collection in 70ct of pear and marquise cut diamonds

 Messika 'Spears' choker, from the 'Once Upon a Time' collection in 70ct of pear and marquise cut diamonds

Messika 'Spears' choker, from the 'Once Upon a Time' collection in 70ct of pear and marquise cut diamonds

Another jewellery brand which places diamonds at the fore is Messika. During Paris Haute Couture Week, Valerie Messika presented the latest pieces from the ‘Once Upon a Time’ collection, which is dedicated to her favourite children’s fairytales. Each necklace, ring and pair of earrings has its own exciting design, but I was most taken with the laconic and stylish ‘Spears’ diamond choker. It is comprised of alternating diamonds in pear and marquise cuts, with a total weight of 70 carats, foregrounded by a 10 carat pear shaped diamond in its centre. It is worth noting that each of these diamonds was not only selected for its cut, but for its exceptional features and quality.

Dior ‘Dentelle Organza’ ring from the 'Dior Dior Dior' collection, with 5.07ct shield / bullet cut diamond, pink sapphires and accenting diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Organza’ ring from the 'Dior Dior Dior' collection, with 5.07ct shield / bullet cut diamond, pink sapphires and accenting diamonds

A diamond which made me stop to pay my absolute and fullest attention was sparkling at the heart of the ‘Dentelle Organza’ ring from latest lace inspired ‘Dior Dior Dior’ line. I was attracted by the unusual form of the diamond; something between a bullet cut and a shield cut. The 5.07 carat stone took pride of place, surrounded by smaller diamonds and pink sapphires adorning the ring’s shank. Incidentally, this is not the only fancy diamond in this high jewellery collection: many ‘Dior Dior Dior’ pieces are decorated with flat diamond ‘discs’ which imitate sequins.

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Victoire' earrings from the 'Quatre contes de Grimm' collection in rose cut fancy yellow diamonds

This season three jewellery houses – Piaget, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels – have turned to rose cut diamonds, whose shape originates from a time before the contemporary technique of applying facets to maximise brilliance were put in place. Rose cut stones are flat at the base, and feature a crown which is polished into a dome with triangular facets. In ‘Sunlight Escape’ from Piaget, these colourless stones with their delicate brilliance decorate ‘Mirror of Lights’ watch, necklace, ring and earrings, whereas Van Cleef & Arpels use 14 yellow rose cut diamonds as the key decorative element for their ‘Victoire’ earrings – the pendants of which can also be removed and worn as studs.

Piaget ‘Mirror of Lights’ necklace with 21 rose cut fancy shaped diamonds totalling 25.97 ct and 638 brilliant cut diamonds totalling 13.46 ct

Piaget ‘Mirror of Lights’ necklace with 21 rose cut fancy shaped diamonds totalling 25.97 ct and 638 brilliant cut diamonds totalling 13.46 ct

 Piaget 'Mirror of Lights' watch from the 'Sunlight Escape' collection in rose cut diamonds

Piaget 'Mirror of Lights' watch from the 'Sunlight Escape' collection in rose cut diamonds

 Boucheron 'Rosé' drop earrings with rose cut diamonds

Boucheron 'Rosé' drop earrings with rose cut diamonds

In conclusion, I wish to draw your attention to a luxurious necklace from Chopard, which the master jewellers of the Swiss house finished creating shortly before Paris Haute Couture Week began. In order to understand its intricate design – which appears at a distance to be a collar studded with diamonds – you must first take a closer look. You discover that the necklace is made from 580 heart cut diamonds, arranged in opposing pairs. The total weight of the stones? No less than 226 carats.

Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

 Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

 Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

Chopard Haute Joaillerie necklace featuring 580 heart shaped diamonds totalling 226 ct

It’s evident that jewellery brands are now moving away from traditional jewellery forms in high jewellery, offering potential clients completely new design solutions and gemstone cuts. And it’s precisely these innovations that make us look forward to Paris Haute Couture Week year in, year out – and all of the fine jewellery discoveries it brings.

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