In Tune with the Body: The Instinctive Sensuality of Brazilian Jewellery

There is something about Brazilian jewellery designers and the way they work with the body’s sensuality, even when it isn’t a conscious intention, that sets their work apart. Fernando Jorge, the poster boy of modern Brazilian design, expresses this instinct without ever needing to articulate it. It’s simply how he designs. Campinas-born and now London-based, his free-flowing creations ebb, ripple and slink along the body, their rounded surfaces and fluid curves tracing the body’s natural topography. Ana Khouri, raised near São Paulo and based in New York, works with a similar devotion to form and feel. Her sculptural pieces are made to be felt as much as seen, moulding to the skin. With an organic softness of line and a plumpness of volume, they have that special something that instantly reads as Brazilian.

When Sauer’s new Axis collection landed in my inbox, it reminded me just how much I’ve admired Brazilian designers over the years. I spent many Baselworlds visiting Carla Amorim—always a pleasure—and, like much of the industry, I’ve swooned over Silvia Furmanovich’s work at the Couture Show. Over time, a pattern has emerged: Brazilian design has a way of honouring the body with a natural fluency. What is it about Brazilian designers that gives them such an intuitive understanding of what enhances the female form?