Gem Dior: A New High Jewellery Collection to Honour Victoire de Castellane’s 20th Anniversary

July 12, 2019

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Dior has officially launched its new collection, ‘Gem Dior’, and in Venice no less – one of the most romantic cities in the world. The launch is dedicated to the twentieth anniversary of the Dior Joaillerie department, whose creative output has been led by Victoire de Castellane. Since 1999, she has drawn inspiration from the very essence of the Dior brand, using her imagination to embellish collections with colourful gemstones, exceptional jewellery art and rather interesting stories.

At first glance, ‘Gem Dior’ fascinates the eye – though it has the same effect on the ears too: the title world “gem” in a French accent is a homonym of the phrase “j’aime”, or “I love”. This collection really is about Victoire’s confession of love for unique gemstones, which has always been present in her Dior jewellery collections. This celebratory line comprises such a remarkable variety of stones that it is completely impossible not to fall in love at first sight! Diamonds, rubies, spessartite garnets, pink and yellow sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites, multi-coloured spinels, tanzanites, rubellites and Paraiba tourmalines — all the most significant gemstones in an endless palette of shades, added to which the jewellery is named after its prevailing tone: Framboise, Coquelicot, Glaçon, Tilleul, Jonquille.

'Gem Dior' ring and double ring with Paraiba tourmalines, diamonds, tsavorites and tanzanites in white gold

'Gem Dior' ring and double ring with Paraiba tourmalines, diamonds, tsavorites and tanzanites in white gold

The new ‘Gem Dior’ collection is, naturally, the most extensive in the history of Dior Joaillerie, with 99 different pieces ranging from earrings to rings and other jewellery to adorn the hands. The epithets “abstract” and “geometrical” best describe the new line. Despite the absence of the usual Dior jewellery features – meaning no smooth lines and curves – the new pieces invariably possess trademark features in Victoire de Castellane’s recognisable artistic style: poetry, asymmetry, futurism and a bold combination of shades. 

'Gem Dior' secret watch with tsavorite, spinel, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, diamonds and tanzanite in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' secret watch with tsavorite, spinel, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, diamonds and tanzanite in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' drop earrings with sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites, tanzanites and diamonds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' drop earrings with sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites, tanzanites and diamonds in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' ring with tanzanite, sapphires, emeralds, Paraiba tourmaline, tsavorite and diamonds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' ring with tanzanite, sapphires, emeralds, Paraiba tourmaline, tsavorite and diamonds in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' drop earrings with emeralds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' drop earrings with emeralds in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' bracelet with Paraiba tourmaline, tsavorites, emeralds, diamonds, rubellites and sapphires in white gold

'Gem Dior' bracelet with Paraiba tourmaline, tsavorites, emeralds, diamonds, rubellites and sapphires in white gold

 'Gem Dior' ring with tsavorites in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' ring with tsavorites in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' bracelet with Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, sapphire, tsavorite, tanzanite and diamonds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' bracelet with Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, sapphire, tsavorite, tanzanite and diamonds in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' hand jewellery with diamonds, sapphires, tanzanites, emeralds, spessartine garnets and spinel in white gold

'Gem Dior' hand jewellery with diamonds, sapphires, tanzanites, emeralds, spessartine garnets and spinel in white gold

It’s as if I had put all my collections from the past twenty years into a shaker and what popped out were freeze-frames and very large pixelized close-ups. In the end, what’s left is material and colour. – Victoire de Castellane

'Gem Dior' hand jewellery with diamonds, spessartine garnets and sapphires in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' hand jewellery with diamonds, spessartine garnets and sapphires in yellow gold

Each piece in the collection combines various types of cut, including baguette, square, pear, marquise, cushion and oval. The placement of these differing cuts side by side seems quite chaotic, with the “mood” of the stones’ effect broken by designs in white or yellow gold.

'Gem Dior' earrings with emeralds, sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' earrings with emeralds, sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' necklace with emeralds, sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' necklace with emeralds, sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds in yellow gold

The jewellery in the ‘Gem Dior’ collection is like a little packet of stones that have been placed on the finger. A throw of stones like a throw of the dice. They topple over one another and wedge together to create effects of volume and relief just like geological strata or certain minerals such as pyrite, which have very geometric constructions. – Victoire de Castellane

'Gem Dior' rings with diamonds in white gold

'Gem Dior' rings with diamonds in white gold

I find the comparison with gambling very appropriate. The brave, mischievous and rebellious spirit the pieces emanate are the ideal embodiment of Victoire de Castellane’s favourite trick – asymmetry – plus the collection comprises types of jewellery very much in vogue at the moment: two-finger rings, and asymmetric earrings and bracelets.

'Gem Dior' drop earrings with rubies, spinels, sapphires and spessartine garnets in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' drop earrings with rubies, spinels, sapphires and spessartine garnets in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' drop ring with rubies, diamonds, spinels, sapphires and spessartine garnets in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' drop ring with rubies, diamonds, spinels, sapphires and spessartine garnets in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' earrings with sapphires in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' earrings with sapphires in yellow gold

 'Gem Dior' ring with sapphires and diamonds and in white gold

'Gem Dior' ring with sapphires and diamonds and in white gold

 'Gem Dior' earrings with sapphires, spessartine garnets and diamonds in yellow gold

'Gem Dior' earrings with sapphires, spessartine garnets and diamonds in yellow gold

Behind these seemingly simple designs is the painstaking work of the jewellers, cutters and polishers — of course, everything ingenious seems simple. I’m certain you’ll agree that the new ‘Gem Dior’ collection is filled with a certain musicality of minerals, a harmony of colour combinations and boldly rhythmic forms.

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