Modern Handcuff: The Best Alternatives to a Cartier Love Bracelet
There are few pieces of jewellery with the staying power of Cartier’s Love bracelet. Launched in 1969, the same year that Neil Armstrong became the first man to walk on the Moon, this iconic design remains as ubiquitous as ever. However, if you’ve ever wished for a slightly less obvious alternative to this instantly recognisable bracelet style, this is exactly the article you need. Continue reading to expand your options…
If you don’t own a Cartier Love bracelet, you probably know someone who does. The unisex design – simple and functional – continues to be among the world’s most sought-after luxury items. Referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff’ in early advertising material, the design revolutionised the way in which jewellery was worn. Locked to the wrist and difficult to remove, it became the blueprint for the kind of day-to-night jewellery that you never take off.
Conceived in Cartier’s New York workshop by the Italian designer Aldo Cipullo, the Love bracelet was a trailblazer in more ways than one. A sleekly modern gold band, curved to hug the wrist, rather than hiding the screwheads, they were exposed, giving the design its signature industrial aesthetic. Even more ground-breaking was the way in which the Love bracelet was fastened to the wrist. Sold with an accompanying screwdriver, the two halves of the bracelet were manually screwed together, symbolising unbreakable love.
Fastened to the wrist with a provided screwdriver, Cartier's iconic, and ubiquitous, Love bracelet is available in 18K yellow, white and rose gold
But why do people covet Cartier’s Love bracelet so much? Probably because it has all the ingredients of the perfect everyday jewel: comfort, wearability and a distinctive design that people notice. Crafted in solid 18k gold, it is robust and hard-wearing. You really can forget you’re wearing it. There’s no danger of it falling off. And there is a wonderful modernity to the design that continues to attract new generations of admirers.
Falling into the same category as the Hermès Birkin bag, a Rolex Submariner, the Burberry trench and Gucci horsebit loafers, the Cartier Love bracelet’s iconic status is undisputed. But what if you already own a Cartier Love bracelet and want to build a wrist stack of different bangles? Or perhaps you are the kind of person who shies away from wearing branded items and prefers to wear jewellery by independent designers? If you fall into either of these categories, here are our top suggestions.
Miseno’s Baia bracelets
“The Cartier Love bracelet was a way for an aspiring consumer to own a piece of luxury,” says Antonio Cardamuro, founder and creative director of the Italian jewellery house Miseno. “It adapts well to an existing bracelet collection and lends itself to an arm stack.” The brand’s Baia bracelets are one of our top choices if you are looking for an alternative to a Cartier Love bracelet. Antonio has designed them with a similar sensibility to the Love bracelet in that they’re easy to mix and match with other jewels.
In 18k gold, diamonds and hardstones, including malachite, the hexagonal design of Miseno’s Baia bangles recalls the submerged mosaic floors discovered on the seabed in the Bay of Naples
The collection is named after the Italian city of Baia, one of the most fashionable resorts in the Roman Empire. The hexagon-shaped beads of lapis lazuli, mother of pearl, malachite and turquoise, inset into solid gold, recall the submerged mosaic floors discovered on the seabed in the Bay of Naples in the marine-protected Baia Underwater Park. By incorporating different hardstones, clients can curate a unique mosaic of colours on the wrist. “I like to play with different finishes, bangle widths and colours that sit nicely together, creating a perfect harmony in the look,” he adds.
Large Baia Sommersa bangle in 18k yellow gold, with diamonds, sapphires and carved turquoise
Karina Choudhrie’s Vitamin Pink bracelets
Karina Choudhrie, founder of London jewellery house Karina Choudhrie Jewels, is a master jeweller who is well-established in the world of high jewellery. When she launched the Vitamin Pink collection earlier this year, it represented a step in a new direction for Karina, whose jewels had all been one of a kind until this point. The Vitamin Pink bracelets are elegant, chic and, most importantly, can be worn all day long. “They read signature Karina Choudhrie, but they are very versatile,” Karina says. “You can dress them up or down, wear one or many. They look amazing with your existing jewellery, and they pair beautifully with a luxe watch.”
“We invested four years in R&D for this collection,” she continues, “and they are made in the same Italian atelier as our high jewellery.” Like Cartier’s Love bracelets, the Vitamin Pink bracelets are oval in shape and moulded to the wrist. We have tried the Vitamin Pink bracelets for size and can confirm they are as comfortable as they look – a key consideration for Karina in the R&D process. “You can wear them from morning to evening, work out in them and even sleep in them,” she says.
Perfect for stacking, Karina Choudhrie’s Vitamin Pink bangles come in different widths, colours of gold and with or without diamonds
Nouvel Heritage’s Mood Bangles
With its origins in the aesthetic codes of the punk movement, the subversive roots of Nouvel Heritage’s Mood collection leave a subtle mark on the designs in the form of a curved bar of gold. Reminiscent of a punk’s preferred accessory, the safety pin, the French brand’s best-selling Mood bracelet has all the hallmarks of a future classic: taut, contemporary lines; beautiful savoir-faire (each bracelet is handmade in Paris in a workshop owned by founder Camille Parruitte’s family); and great potential for stacking. I love how different designs are named after different moments in the day. An easy piece to reach for when you’re in a rush to get ready for work, the Monday Morning Mood bracelet features two subtle diamond accents, while the Dinner Date design dresses things up with a delicate curve of brilliant-cut diamonds contrasting with the sleek lines of a baguette-cut diamond.
Nouvel Heritage's Mood bangles are named after different moments in the day. From left to right, the Soirée, Monday Morning and Under the Stars bangles, all in 18K rose gold with diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée bracelets
Perlée entered Van Cleef & Arpels’ fine jewellery collections in 2008, and its distinctive yet timeless design made it an instant classic. A French word that translates as ‘beaded’, the collection celebrates the intricate milgrain detailing that has been a Van Cleef & Arpels signature since the 1920s. Edged with polished gold beads and polished to a mirror finish, the Maison’s Signature Perlée bracelets are the epitome of chic. An easy piece to stack with any bangle, it’s the kind of jewel that, like the Love bracelet, hits the mark every time you wear it. Or there is the Perlée Clovers bracelet, a sweet amalgamation of two Van Cleef icons: its Perlée gold beads and lucky diamond mascot, the four-leaf Alhambra clover.
Alessa Jewelry’s Elixir bracelets
Founded in 2009 by Alessandra Robles and Yuvraj Pahuja, Dubai-based brand Alessa Jewelry has mastered the art of bracelet stacking. It specialises in the kind of solid gold bangles that, like the Love bracelet, are designed to be worn repeatedly, and its more is more mentality is definitely something we can get on board with! From the simplest Spectrum bangle in white gold and diamonds to the graphic elegance of the Elixir bracelet, their clean lines and sleek silhouettes make them ideal for wearing in multiples. The Elixir bracelets that contrast diamonds with bold flashes of green and black enamel, highlighting the geometric lines of the design, are a firm favourite.
Alessa Jewelry makes it easy to build a personalised bracelet stack with its Spectrum and Elixir bangles in 18K gold with diamonds, mother of pearl and enamel
With the ‘wrist party’ trend still going strong, Cartier’s seminal Love bracelet, available in all shades of gold, is always a good investment and the ideal statement piece to build your stack around. As we all know, though, the best parties are filled with a mix of interesting guests. By blending different bracelet widths, layering big brands with independent designers, mixing metals and injecting some colour into your bracelet curation, you can create a plentiful stack that tells a very personal story with multiple styling opportunities.
WORDS
Claire Roberts Claire Roberts joined the company in 2020. Her immersion into the industry happened quite by chance when she applied for a job editing a magazine that specialised in jewellery and watches. By the time she had returned from her first trip to the Baselworld fair in Switzerland, she was hooked. Following seven years as managing editor of The Jewellery Editor, Claire left to become a freelance journalist specialising in jewellery, during which time she has edited Graffiti magazine for Graff and worked with several other Bond Street brands. Based in Oxfordshire, Claire has been writing about jewellery and watches for more than 20 years but still gets excited when one of her favourite designers launches a new collection. Her ultimate dream jewel is a gobstopper-sized Paraiba tourmaline ring.
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