GemGeneve: Russian designers conquer Switzerland

April 30, 2019

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

Generally speaking, very little is known about Russia’s high jewellery industry, since most designers exclusively create private orders. Only a very small number of these designers gain international recognition; nevertheless, Russia is a country rich with not only precious resources, but also with talent. A select few Russian jewellers were invited to participate in GemGeneve 2019.

From 9th-12th May the second edition of the GemGeneve exhibition in Geneva will host elite gem and antique dealers, as well as independent designers. Presenting as either exhibitors, emerging talent or within the specially selected designer vivarium; several dozen jewellers will display their collections and unique works to the buyers, press and attendees. Visitors of GemGeneve will have a rare opportunity to personally become acquainted with art jewels and their creators. In the meantime, I invite you to meet a selection of Russian designers whose work will be showcased…

Ninotchka 'Morning Glory' cuff bracelet with petrified wood, diamonds, sapphires, demantoid garnets, gold, silver and bronze presented at Gem Geneve in 2018. Photo by Simon Martner

Ninotchka 'Morning Glory' cuff bracelet with petrified wood, diamonds, sapphires, demantoid garnets, gold, silver and bronze presented at Gem Geneve in 2018. Photo by Simon Martner

href=”http://www.alexanderlaut.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Alexander Laut

A native of Moscow, Alexander Laut left Russia in the nineties to settle in America. This is where he met Harry Winston’s son Ronald, who inspired the young Laut to create his own jewellery brand. Alexander always had a fascination with precious jewellery and stones, so creating his own work was only a matter of time. In 2003, he started his own business, creating unique rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets – each only made in a single edition, and all composed of only exceptional precious stones. Laut’s work is often found in auction houses, and has become part of private collections all over the world.

Alexander Laut and a selection of his gemstone-lead jewellery

Alexander Laut and a selection of his gemstone-lead jewellery

Milio

The name ‘Milio’ is an amalgamation of the names of the mother and daughter founders of the brand: LyudmIla and Olga Mironovs. This creative duo from Moscow works to produce jewellery with character, using a design philosophy which always cites the gem as the starting point. Lyudmila and Olga believe that one’s outfit should be selected to match jewellery, and not vice versa, while jewellery that you wear should be statement and attract others’ attention. That is why members of the Mironov family possess such a bold approach to the design of jewellery, using original making techniques and materials, as well as a host of bright gemstones for decorating their often rather complex creations.

Milio earrings with amethysts, emeralds, rubies and diamonds

Milio earrings with amethysts, emeralds, rubies and diamonds

 Milio Bow brooch in gold with diamonds

Milio Bow brooch in gold with diamonds

 Milio cocktail ring

Milio cocktail ring

 Milio cocktail ring

Milio cocktail ring

href=”http://www.ninotchkagoods.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Ninotchka

The founders of the Moscow jewellery company Ninotchka – Yevgeny Glagolev and Timur Ibragimov – are historic jewellery enthusiasts, and have weaved some of the elements of antique jewellery into much more modern creations. Paying tribute to the beautiful minerals mined in Russia, these gifted designers embellish Ninotchka jewellery with Siberian amethysts and Ural demantoids, as well as diamonds and other precious stones. The voluminous shape of their creations is their signature, although this creative duet also uses more alternative jewellery materials – including wood – in some of their work.

Ninotchka Russia nephrite and amethyst ring

Ninotchka Russia nephrite and amethyst ring

href=”http://www.tenzo-jewellery.com/m/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Alexander Tenzo

The love of coloured gems – especially spinel – permeates all of the precious pieces of the Russian jeweller and gem hunter Alexander Tenzo. Currently, he is boldly experimenting with a colour palette of tourmalines, spinels, chrysoberyls, sapphires and more in order to create his jewellery sets, cocktail rings, various bracelets, earrings and brooches. He possesses a plethora of skills: an understanding of subtle colour; a mastery of stone setting; complex stone carving that allows him to create either cameos or intaglios; and an attention to the smallest detail. These skills are apparent in his every creation – be it a magnificent necklace for special occasions or a delicate brooch. It should be noted that one must consider these works carefully and from all sides – Tenzo’s work contains hidden ‘secrets’ in the form of interesting design accents that are not always apparent at first glance!

Alexander Tenzo and a selection of his jewellery

Alexander Tenzo and a selection of his jewellery

If you are visiting GemGeneve, be sure to take the time to browse the work of these jewellers, all of whom – except for Alexander Laut – will present their works at Designers Vivarium: a curation of independent designers selected by the jewellery historian Vivienne Becker.

YOKO London: Luxury Pearl Jewellery Brand Presented Over 200 New Pieces at Baselworld

continue reading

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Millionaire Products: Celebrating the No-Expense-Spared Bvlgari Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Bvlgari is opening a magnificent new chapter in the world of high jewellery, and high jewellery watches with the Polychroma collection. Here's what I have discovered so far…

by Katerina Perez

Sea of Wonder: Celebrating the Ocean’s Endless Bounty with the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2025

Here are some of the creations that became an integral part of the Tiffany & Co. underwater world, including starfish, crashing waves and sea turtles…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.