Ask Katerina: Diamond Jewellery Styling Tips for Modern Dressing

In early March, Mercedes-Benz invited me to discover its new G-Class ‘Stronger Than Diamonds’ Edition at Studio Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. This car is a jewellery lover’s dream, complete with 0.25-carat diamonds set into all four stainless steel door-locking pins! Although all 300 cars sold out at record pace, there was still time to talk with Munich-based stylist Olesya Schuler at a private event organised by Studio Odeonsplatz about the best ways to wear diamonds in a fresh, modern and exciting way. Here are some of the answers I gave during the presentation to aid your jewellery dressing…

It was a pleasure to be invited to Studio Odeonsplatz in Munich to give a presentation on modern diamond jewellery trends and styling advice. I often give talks on the most significant developments in jewellery, but rarely to an audience that’s made up of jewellery lovers, luxury seekers and car enthusiasts in equal measure. I loved how curious they were about the subject as, unlike my regular audience, they didn’t have a very deep knowledge of gemstones and were listening to my every word with great curiosity.

What distinguishes diamond jewellery of the past from the diamond jewellery we have today?

The most obvious difference is the design itself. Nowadays, diamond jewellery is more adapted to daily wear, whether you’re going to work, meeting friends for lunch, or simply going to the supermarket. Pre-1980s, jewellery had a very specific societal function to announce one’s status and power. High jewels especially were reserved for evening occasions and black-tie functions, perhaps worn just once per year. Pieces from the first half of the 20th century are heavy with details, often with a more liberal use of precious metal, floral diamond settings, and extra diamond pavé. Nowadays, diamond jewellery is more subtle, streamlined and minimalistic –the little touch of sparkle you use to add a finishing touch.

The next difference is stone settings. You’ll note that with vintage pieces, settings are chunkier and more integral to the design, often with bold claws or thick bezel styles. We have witnessed a huge trend in the last decade for minimal metal and barely-there settings that aim for a completely invisible framework of precious gold, platinum or titanium. The result of this is a minimalism – a kind of creative neatness – that makes a single diamond solitaire the focus of a design.

Of course, by putting a single diamond in the spotlight, there’s added pressure to ensure this stone is of exceptional quality. Historically, diamonds were cut for their individual beauty with a less calculated map of facets, such as Old Mine cuts and rose cuts. Two were rarely the same, and, as a result, each one had its own distinctive character. Modern cutting techniques are more technical, precise and repeatable, which means diamonds follow a kind of cutting formula that can feel repetitive. To counter this, we’ve seen a flurry of fancy cuts, such as shield, kite, and bullet, that are a real personality punch! Coupled with newer materials like titanium and aluminium, this can make for exciting and modern diamond creations.

What are considered the most timeless pieces of diamond jewellery? 

To me, timeless is an aesthetic that means a piece can suit different tastes and personal styles across multiple generations of jewellery wearers. If you are looking to purchase ageless diamond jewels, I recommend choosing pieces that are stripped of any unnecessary details and design features so that only the diamonds and their neat settings remain. Examples may include a diamond solitaire pendant, a pair of diamond stud earrings, or a classic solitaire ring that house gems with the best possible colour, clarity and cut. Other examples include elegant tennis bracelets, riviera necklaces, and everyday diamond pieces that blend just as beautifully with a little black dress as they do with jeans and a t-shirt. Finally, your definition of timeless may include investment-grade diamond jewellery and pieces that can be handed down as a financial asset from one generation to the next. You will likely need to secure expert advice and guidance should you wish to pursue this avenue.

How has the role of jewellery in society changed with time and how has this impacted jewellery styling?

Diamond jewellery is now a vehicle for self-expression, style, and statement dressing. More than ever before, it is an outward representation of your personality, and as such, the trend for stacking and layering has exploded. With every piece that’s added to a look, such as multiple rings or earrings, the idea is that you’re revealing another chapter in your personal story. There’s even a level of chaos in this kind of jewellery styling, which we’ve highlighted in articles on the ‘Neck Mess’ trend and the mismatched look. A wonderful example recently was Taylor Swift wearing a diamond-set Concord watch choker necklace by Lorraine Schwartz to the 66th Grammy Awards.

In the last decade, we’ve seen big shifts, such as a move towards unconventional designs like ear cuffs, hair jewels, palm jewels, multi-finger rings and so on. Plus, we’ve seen a more gender-fluid approach to jewellery design, as well as diamond jewellery collections targeted specifically at men who wish to blur the line between traditionally feminine and masculine aesthetics. Perhaps the most exciting way that jewellery has changed over time, however, is the move away from matching parures. In the past, women would have worn a matching necklace, earrings, bracelet ring and perhaps even a brooch that all contained the same diamonds and coloured gemstones to demonstrate they are part of one jewellery ‘family’. In 2024, you only have to look at the Oscars red carpet to see stars mixing and matching pieces from different designers, from vintage and modern collections, from different ranges from the same brand… I could go on! There’s a newfound sense of freedom in diamond jewellery that really helps people to stand out and share their uniqueness.

Which of the 4Cs of diamonds is most important for shoppers to consider?

It really depends on what factors you prioritise and, of course, your budget. To maximise the investment value of your purchase, choose colour and clarity over carat weight. However, if you want a big look with a large stone, you can choose a lesser-quality colour and eye-clean clarity and focus on the carat weight to get the most for your budget. It’s true that cut is an extremely important factor, as this is what determines how light travels through and out of a stone, resulting in that characteristic diamond brilliance and sparkle. A diamond with a poorer colour grade can still look beautiful when it has an exceptional cut, so it’s the combination of the 4Cs that makes all the difference, not just one of the four! Think of the 4Cs as a diamond recipe – you might wish to increase or decrease some ingredients depending on your personal tastes. I always say, choose the diamond that speaks to you the most.

What are the best ways to style diamond jewellery to always look sophisticated and elegant?

I am a firm believer in the less is more mentality. For utmost elegance, choose a single jewel to be the focal point of your outfit. This doesn’t mean you can’t layer and stack multiple pieces, but always ensure there is a piece that grabs and holds the attention. The onlooker’s eye shouldn’t wander when they see your jewellery ensemble. Instead, they should know instantly what the highlight or key piece of your look is. Of course, this is my personal taste, and others may disagree. When I am styling myself and others, I try and find balance. For example, I would pair a big necklace with smaller earrings or a large diamond cocktail ring with a more subdued bracelet or ear stack.

It’s important to also say that sophisticated and elegant don’t always equate to small! There’s a tendency for sleekness to be confused with subtlety, so don’t be afraid to step away from solitaires into a more exciting jewellery arena. Although it might be tempting, don’t buy into collections just because they are popular or splashed across social media. These mass-produced icons of luxury are typically overpriced and ubiquitous, so you’ll never have the chance to express yourself fully through them. And finally, think about transformable day-to-night designs for jewellery box versatility and effortless style. A good example is pendant earrings, where the drop is detachable, leaving you with a classic pair of studs for the daytime. Simple, yet refined.

How would you style a daily look with diamonds?

This is an easy one… look to your favourite celebrities for inspiration! Daily dressing is subjective, so what works for me may not be what expresses your personality. From my perspective, a daily diamond-centric look should be a comfortable twist on convention, whether that’s through stacked tennis bracelets, a statement ring, an ear cuff or layered necklaces with talismans and charms. Daily styling can be understated (like Gwyneth Paltrow) or outlandish, like Rihanna wearing a Jacob & Co diamond watch on her ankle! Some of our other favourites here at KaterinaPerez.com are Gigi Hadid and Jennifer Lopez, as well as stylish men like Timothée Chalamet, Harry Styles, and Machine Gun Kelly. Another top tip is to look at how women working in jewellery dress themselves, as they have access to beautiful pieces, a close eye on trends and access to emerging talents. Here, you will find some great examples of daily dressing by male journalists, photographers and creative directors on our radar.

How should I care for and store diamond jewellery?

Here are my top tips. Remove all your diamond jewellery when applying creams or perfumes to avoid the build-up of dirt around your diamond setting. Clean your pieces regularly in soapy water or in an ultrasonic machine and store them separately from other gems to avoid scratches, ideally in individual pouches. When you pick up or take off your diamond ring, do so by the shank and not the diamond itself to avoid as much daily wear and tear as possible. Finally, always insure your jewellery against loss, theft or damage, not just via your home insurance but when you’re out and about, too. This is the peace of mind you need to wear your diamonds confidently.

And after all this, I think it is important to remember that wearing diamond jewellery should be fun and exciting. There are meaningful jewels full of sentiment, but there are also the pieces that we buy for absolute pleasure. If you are fortunate enough to buy for enjoyment, then these tips will help you make the most of your jewellery collection.